To deal with sharp edges, you can also babysit your laminate while the epoxy kicks… Meaning you should apply pressure on those corners with a spatula until the epoxy starts to kick and the cloth starts to stick to the foam as desired! This allow greater control might be a safer technique. I did that to laminate my lid and board and it worked great! You have to be patient though and make sure the outside temp is hot enough for the epoxy to cure rapidly!
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Lower oz on the cloth and twill or harness weaves will also form better around sharp edges! I’ve used 6oz 4HS carbon and it conformed pretty good with reasonable effort.
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What are you putting on the blank at 3:07?
Also. Do you have part 2??? Or is this it?
Sealing the some of the bigger holes in the blank with a lightweight epoxy filler “epoxy bog” I have some of a part 2 but my gopro decided to face away from what I was doing and i didnt notice until it was too late 
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Thank you again for the info.
Today we finished shaping the blank, and it looks we might need some epoxy bog too.
We used EPS with pretty rough granules. (100 kPa)
When sanding it, it breaks pretty easy making it hard to shape it the way we wanted it.
Yep it is a pain to shape but it gets easier the more of them you do. I also get the chipping but just bog it up
Finally some more time to work on the board.
We managed to get a nice big pneumatic venturi vacuum valve to create some good vacuum, and more important to use our air compressor witch can run 24/7.
Now what do you suggest to do. Create the needed area’s in the blank before glassing, or after putting the 1st layer of glass (and cork) on it.?
I cut the hole in the blank first leaving a 2 inch overlap to join into the top layers
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Has 2 rubber O rings with silicone grease to make it detachable
Thanks for your reply. I refer in these gaps.
Do you use just silicone grease in these gaps?
Regards,
Pablo
Oh right, I used blue gasket sealant for that particular design (the type you would use in a engine) because its blue and easy to remove if needed lol
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Perfect! thanks.
Regards,
Pablo
Do you have the stl for the double o ring end piece. I am trying to make mine just like yours.
Its shared further up in the thread if you need it
The 80100 motors gets too high eddy current losses above 8000 rpm so it’s not adviseable to go higher. 14s kv130 would be at the limit but with loaded rpm drop still possible.
Very nice board! What is the configuration of your lid? material? and how much weight is your lid? Thanks.
Pablo
Thanks. The lid is about 900g. It’s made with;
64kg density polyurethane foam core,
1 layer 200g Twill, (1st layer)
1 layer 400g double bias +45/-45 (second layer)
Top and bottom.
I cut 10mm ply with stainless inserts in it into the foam core for the the hinge mounts before I put the cf on it
Then vaccume bagged it to a polished bit of glass to get a nice flat bottom so its easier to make water tight
Dimensions are 600mm x 380mm
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Just for reference
Board is 8kg
foil/mast/motor is 9 kg
Battery/electrical still tbc