New Direct Drive Inrunner 65150

Have you tested the motor under load? The not sounds smooth might just be because the motor isn’t under load. Mine sounds “crunchy” too, but under load it is very smooth and quiet.

:call_me_hand:

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Yes. It is the best, and most expensive VESC

Tramps 75/300. Can handle 75 volts and 300 amps.

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Okay, I will try it when all is finished and see how it is under load.

I saw the price, cheap is something other :rofl::rofl::rofl:

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Just got back from a test ride with the new flipsky Vesc. IT WAS AWESOME. Im never buying another standard ESC again. The motor was super smooth and I really liked the current control. It was also really nice to know that there is a current limiter, temp limiter and a reliable low voltage cutoff. Having the current, voltage and temp info on the maytech remote was awesome too since i cant really see the screen on my battery box while I am riding.

I rode for probably 35 minutes on 2X 20Ah 6s turnigy lipo’s (12s,20Ah) and stopped right around 39V. I was riding pretty hard too. Once I hit 39V the VESC is set to reduce power to a point where i can no longer foil but can get back to shore on my stomach.

The only issue I had was that the current limiter seemed to not let me draw anymore than like 65A. This made starting out a little tricky as I had to put alot of weight forward on the board while planing to get enough speed up then after trying to build up speed for a few seconds could lean back and just barely get it up on the foil. Once up on the foil though, it had plenty of power and i could probably get to around 18-20MPH. I have the motor and battery current limit set to like 120A but for some reason it only let me get to like 65A max. Has anyone else had this problem? I was thinking that maybe it was the way that my remote throttle input in scaled? Like maybe the VESC is reading 100% throttle on the remote as only 75% or something? How do you guys have your remote input configured? Do you use the current control with brake setting (no reverse) and have the bar graph on the setup wizard set to read 0% throttle with no trigger depressed and then 100% with the trigger pulled in all the way? Any other settings I should check? I need to check my throttle mapping to make sure full trigger is really 100% power

Here is a quick vid from the test run today! https://youtu.be/hvgoTsfnWZA

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Well done !!
Did you have experience with efoil / foils before ?

Could it be you have your maximum ERPM setting set too low?

:call_me_hand:

I have been working on building my own and occasionally getting to ride them when they feel like working for like 2 and a half years now. I did get to ride a lift efoil once for about 30 minutes. Other than that, just riding foils behind boats now and then.

@Flightjunkie im pretty sure my ERPM is at the default setting which is like 9999999 or something. It definitely seems like a current limit thing since I didnt have much power at the start but once I am up on the foil the thing flies. I wonder if I need to set my motor RPM alot higher. Apparently, motor RPM is typically alot higher than battery current. Since I think the 65A Max I am seeing is battery current, maybe its hitting the motor current limit before the battery current even gets close to its limit.

You might need to increase your motor current, having a low motor current limit pretty much reduces the low end power, low end power is needed to easily plane as you can imagine.

When you are going slow the battery current isn’t exceeding 65 amps because if it does the motor current limit would be exceeded. I would increase the motor current to 160a.

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You are using the 65161 Flipsky motor?

Do you know if it is possible to run the flipsky 200a vesc at 14s? On the flipsky website they say 60V but also 3-12s?

which esc is that exactly?

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Don’t do this, it is safe under 12s. It has been proven to burn if you power it @14S

Oke, than I stick to my 300a swordfish for now. This is working good for me but I like the current control option of the flipsky vesc.

How did you setup throttle? You can have throttle via PPM/PWM or UART.
If you use PPM it could be calibration/setting error in the VESC Tool.
If you use UART, the remote commands the VESC directly. So 100% = 120A. No mapping/scaling in between.

What were the 65A? If you are using too big prob, you can have 120A Motor amps and only 65A (or even way less) Battery amps. So maybe it’s not because of the ESC but because of you mechanical setup.

If you burst the 60V even by just “watermilling the prop” so the motor works as generator and does recuperation which might exceed your 60Vlimit, the VESC will die immediately.
So better stay with 12S :wink:

My Flipsky 65161 came with a ceramic seal instead of lip seal. Does anyone have experience how the ceramic seal performs in terms of leakage and durability?

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What you you mean? Post pictures please.

:call_me_hand:

I was told at my engineering course that ceramic seals are superior. Instead of metal rubbing on rubber, you have ceramic on ceramic.Or steel on steel. Both surfaces are as smooth as they can be and stay that way when they rotate.

Ah. Thanks for the explanation. Can you post a picture of your motor with this seal?

Is this why the first gen 65160 motors have the different shaped shaft side end, with the screw off looking cap?

On 4x4 trucks some rear axles I have worked on have this type of seal so the axle shaft or wheel hub doesn’t get a groove worn in the metal. We call them “two part oil seals”. You must keep them clean and lubricated or they can develop friction and stick causing them to spin on the shaft. When that happens they leak and can cause shaft damage. We use gasket sealant on both ends to help glue them in place and prevent slipping.

:call_me_hand: