I also asked myself the same question, after seeing that I am not an E-foil pro I will follow what has been indicated on the forum and approved by some rider like Pacificmeister and others is 25% of the size of your board (from the back of the board to the axis of the mat) But if it was my only problem … I just suffered a failure on the tightness of the remote control JeffM …
Hi VeFoil. Did you use the Foilmount? If so, any problems so far? Cheers
Yes we use the FoilMount system on a couple of our board with no issues at all.
For positioning on an efoil, we used the FoilMount guidlines for placement and stuck with the shortest distance from the backmofnthe board they recomended. We can slide out mast forward and back even with wires so we have 5” of slide to adjust of we want to alter where we stand on our board as well.
LEDs on the bottom. Awesome! I had the same idea. Imagine how cool you would look when night riding.
I think a black board with the NightRider red lights going back and forth would kick ars!!
Who didn’t like that show back in the day…
Indeed @VeFoil But Knight Industries could produce no e-foil though. Pretty lame when you think about it today.
ya no kidding!
I want a board that runs on a watch and I just say “Lets Foil!” and it picks me up and takes me for a journey with some turbo boosts and super persuit mode when outrunning the police
Please don’t recommend foil mount for e-foil diy builders… there are several pictures and examples on this forum of these double–sided tape-foilmounts that delaminate boards. Even tho you had no problems with it, does not neccicarly make it a good solution for diy builders…
Every product has the potential to damage something and there many variables that go into each specific situation. Some boards are much tougher than others, and you can’t really expect a large SUP wing to work on a foilmount without likely over stressing a board not designed for foiling.
What your saying is like everyone should stop recommend things that don’t work well like using seaking 130 ESC because they overheat and have damage parts of many users electrical box, etc… Reality is most parts used on the for forum have damaged boards/setups or simply don’t work in general.
But yes, I will not mention foilmounts solution again if me answering sometimes questions about them bothers you that much Hiorth.
Hey, MaxMaker, youre right, but the video lacks from other forces involved, lift, that usually is 10 times greater than drag.You ever wonder why the foils are structurally so strong? well heres some sort of an answer: enormous forces!
why? quick answer, rideability!
Long nerd answer, having the wing 2.5°(typical) relative angled to the tail generate a huge moment, you counteract this by weight and traction, and you end with the COG well ahead of front wing and a high value of longitudinal stability derivative that make yout board rideable.
Comment about the foil mount on an Australian forum.
Indeed by using older (dirt cheap) boards, there is a risk
Just be aware of the chance of delaminating your board with these stick on mounts. Should be ok with Naish, but when i couldnt wait for a proper mount on one on my boards it ripped the bottom off the board in three sessions. I have used them on kite boards with no problems. It all comes down to the quality of the board. I wouldn’t use one on a sup board again. Fit a proper mounf and do it properly
When JoetheKiter, Stringy, and I were at Jones last June with my converted North Whip… the ride was good. But once we came to the shore and started push-pulling on the mast? You could see it was torquing the board to near catastrophic. If one of us had hit a log there’s no way that board would’ve survived in one piece.
Then I added the 4 each 3/8X 1/2" stringers of oak wrapped in 4 oz. cloth. Solid.
I guess that asking a shaper to insert foil rails and reinforce the board is a necessary investment ( one more )
It is also very important to consider the forces involved in an e-foil application.
Board weight will be between 18-35kg
Motor will be able to generate a very high moment on the foil mount.
especially if running a large prop(120-180mm)OD.
ideally the load should be transferred trough as large part of the board as possible. Having a mount directly connected to the stringer or a larger structure inside the board.
On our 2 boards we have been using a glass fiber plate with 4 holes on each side of the board running threaded rods in between. Then connected the mast mount on to the same threaded rods. These mounts have not failed yet. Just make sure to seal the foam from water.
If ho need realy NICE board (PICTURE below).
VERY GOOD PRICE 1180€ + SHIPPING becuse its prototip
BIG SPACE INSIDE 700 x 350 x 75
That is a very nice looking board! Have you got pictures of the bottom of the board?
I’m guessing that this one is designed to use a water-cooled ESC.
What are the board dimensions? I’d be interested to know what shipping costs would be to the UK
I am wondering if I could use those polypropylen barbecue cutting boards for the same usage as @hiorth fiberglass top and bottom strengthening layers… It looks darn strong to me !
Very interesting idea. I am currently using two aluminum plates and would love to replace them with something lighter.
I would use either G10 or carbon fibre plates.
A bag filled with water is probably the cleverest thing I have read on here in regards to glass layering
I am not sure that it would be lighter but it would certainly spread the effort on a larger area.
Your way of doing it, though, beats any record in terms of “Keep It Simple Stupid” principle ! I love it !