New Direct Drive Inrunner 65150

When I used swordfish , to me it was more the phase motor current that is log
At the time I recorded pics over 240A on start , I am sure that was not on the battery side

I’m pretty sure it’s the battery current. Hifei only display a single current so it wouldn’t make sense to display a single phase. It would make more sense to display the battery so that users know how to spec batteries.
Either way, it’s not the most efficient controller but at least it does work with this motor.

HI Jezza,
What foil are you using with the motor and what’s the total weight of the board+rider?

Riding the slingshot gamma 68 wing.
Total weight plus rider ±115kg

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Run test off load without prop full throttle , got the same pics amp last year with hifei software then motor current on my vesc , they may be updated software from last year , but amp recordered with voltage didn’t add up when charging the battery after running …

I think their current measurement is not too accurate! But hey…at the moment there aren’t too many ESC’s that work with this motor so guys might have to make do…

I have 2 swordfish esc’s and I think the current measurement is some sort of average of the motor phases. It is much higher then measured on the battery side.

I also now have @nickw1881 VESC and a Metr pro running with the motor. I just need to build a water-cooling heatsink and then it’s testing time!

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That’s definitely the best way to measure the shit out of it!

I’m planning a direct drive, read this whole thread. Seems like virus bought the maytech motor and kit with success but i haven’t found a single completed build with the cheaper reacher or flipsky motor.

Looking at the specs and the dyno sheet the motor doesn’t look good at all, 83% efficient and even lower at reasonable torque when the only reason to purchase it would be to get continuous torque…

So - anyone using the cheaper ones with good results? Care to link the build threads?

You clearly didn’t read the thread very carefully then (sorry if that seems mean, it’s not meant to)…
The motors are all out the same factory and Maytech is simply a re-seller, the most expensive one at that.
And yes, I have spoken to the factory that makes them.
Virus has the 100Kv and is now using the “Maytech” waterproof ESC which is the same as the Flipsky 300A or ZTW seal 300A, just in a waterproof housing. Whether or not they have customised the firmware I don’t know.

I have the 120Kv motor which is faster than the 100Kv and has plenty torque, so there’s no real point in getting a slower motor. There is also now a 140Kv which would probably be the better for a bit more speed. I guess it depends on what want really.

In terms of speed controllers, the best options and also most cost effective are the ARC200 if you can find one second hand, or otherwise one of the VESC variants. They are MUCH smoother and quieter when they drive this motor and there are way better logging options with them.

I hope some of that is helpful…

This motor is being used in the Pegasus foil and I suspect a few other commercial entities. If you want a higher efficiency motor you will pay for it. The Flying Rodeo motor is by far the best on the market, but the cost reflects that.

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I read carefully. It’s been said before in the thread: a motor can look the same and have different specs.

“flipsky” spec (just an example, not actual data):
0.5mm laminations, no annealing process
Chinese brand bearings and seals
Nd35 magnets
30 minutes winding time resulting in low copper fill

“maytech” spec (just an example, not actual data):
0.2mm laminations, annealed and insulated
Top brand bearings and seals
Nd45SH magnets with divisions
60 minutes winding time resulting in higher copper fill

You wouldn’t see it but when it starts to smell burnt you’ll know.

If you got confirmation from the factory that the specs are exactly the same then i didn’t read it careful enough but i don’t think it’s posted?
which motor did you get?
What’s the phase resistance, kV and noload current@which rpm for your motor?

Where did the lamination, annealing and magnet info come from? Is it from maytech?

It’s not real data, just an example of the possible variations of a motor with same looks, sorry for the confusion.

It’s a hit and miss thing, like when Hobbyking copies a name brand controller and switches to low quality mosfets and caps, killing the overall design. Or they steal the complete design, making a fully functional copy at a fraction of the cost.

The problem is the former not the latter. I’m OK getting the same lams, magnets, and bearings for cheaper. I just got some no-brand Ebay motors for my skateboard and it seems they used rocks for bearings :rofl:

I’m a fan of the group buy process where many of us get together to propose a specific design to a manufacturer and we all buy it. Then we get the quality without paying the brand tax.

No it’s the same…but maytech has tried to claim they have a better unit to justify the price. But they didn’t know we had info and pics from actual manufacturer. All three companies are resellers.

I do get what you saying though.

They haven’t been out that long and builds do take some time.
Maybe you could start a built and make a contribution to the forum instead of posting completley made up motor specifications.

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I’ll contribute, in time. Topics was started 7 months ago so i’d guess a few people are ready with at least some trials with motor and ESC in water, a pull test would give a lot of info.

Wait lets not gloss over Maytech “making up” specifications. Does Larsb have a spec sheet, or does someone have a sample they can measure the lam thickness so we can confirm? Or did we already do that and I forgot?

No he doesn’t. He did make it up the specs. Which could be misleading for anyone that doesn’t know.

Manufoil and I both have 120kv from different resellers and have being seeing similar results. In addition to the manufacturer confirming the specs are the same.