ESC advice-blew up the first one

Starting a build and I will post much more soon when I get a little farther.
Just getting parts together and doing some testing and I had a failure.
I have two batteries (TURNIGY HIGH CAPACITY 20000MAH 6S 12C LIPO PACK W/XT90) , a 56104 motor, 150A fuse, a handheld eskate controller and reciever and a Hobbywing Seaking V3 120A Brushless Waterproof ESC since I couldnt find the 130A quickly.

I wired it up the same as PMs wiring diagram (minus the monitors and gauges), soldered connectors everywhere I connected it all a first time and did not get any beeping or anything at all other than blinking lights on the receiver. I disconnected it, checked things over and did it again, touched the throttle and got a 1sec burst of motor activity then bang and smoke. ESC is now dead. A hole burned through the plastic housing next to the negative lead.
I am thinking I did not start it up with the throttle all the way up first, so it calibrated to the low setting and then when I went to high it passed too much current and overloaded.
Sound reasonable?
Im very sure its wired right. I have wired up multiple solar panel/battery bank systems for a family cabin and do most of my own electrical/ remodeling on my home for the last few decades. I checked it 10 times before plugging into batteries as well.
I need to buy a new ESC and think I should maybe go higher in current while Im doing it?
Im larger (105kg) and sure I will be pulling more current to foil than others here. I kite and am always one size bigger than everyone else so I know I require more thrust.
I dont want to spring for the 300A units unless its really necessary.
Let me know what you think.

Mat

That sucks that that happened! I blew a SeaKing by only having two of 3 motor phase wires working. Blew a hole right in the side. I now use a Flier 300a and it works so that’s good! Better to have more ESC than too little. I’m 90kg and have no problem flying at 30-40% power.

Too bad about your ESC. Sounds like a huge amperage spike. I really recommend getting the MGM Compro 25063-3 X2 ESC with extra capacitor bank added. The interface computer program is excellent. You can download all of the critical data. Super easy to program and really nice safety features. A well tuned efoil with a gearbox and optimized propeller should only draw about 40 amps on the foil. A Slingshot Infinity 76 or 84 will help reduce the amp draw and heat generated.

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I’m still in the testing phase wirh my setup and use a flier 240A ESC. Don‘t now how it wil work under load, I works fine without motor load. I bought it over a year ago when I was enthusiastic and thought I would advance faster with my build. At that time high current VESCs just started to apear. If I had to buy a new ESC now, I would go for a VESC, probably the triforce A200S. With a VESC you can limmit the current (which saves the esc from burning) and you get telemetry data. Costs a bit more but pays of in the end. Those Chinese ESC‘s are not the best quality ones (at least my Flier does not impress me).

The seaking 120 is rated for 2-6s. If you put 12s to it that is the problem.

@Bufadore Chris, Where did you find this foil board ? , I would like to find one for my DIY build , where I can put everything inside

Be sure to check this out:

Good boards are hard to find!

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It’s from Flying Rodeo. I purchased the mast, motor, propeller and board. I built the electronics and am using a Slingshot Infinity 76cm hydrofoil. It is amazing. You can check out my Instagram at chris_wiseman1 for some videos. I’m so impressed at the Flying Rodeo company. Great service and top quality engineering. I can’t think of how to make it any better.

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David at @Flying_Rodeo does make a great product! :raised_hands:t3:

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