80100 direct cooling


I did some work in Blender and had a new mast clamp printed 40% fill as a test fit.

The red part broke as I pushed it on the clamp, kinda expected. I’m going to glue it back together and try sliding it on.

Then I’ll order the front clamp at 80% fill.


Why not split the two parts where the mast is widest?


those parts are clean :slight_smile:
You should really try to close that gap as much as possible.
If you keep a gap too big, as soon as you start screwing, you’ll end up stressing the part in its weakest direction and layers are likely to keep splitting.

To get stronger parts, i think it’s better to increase the number of walls than to increase infill, especially that those parts don’t need to be waterproof anyway.

May be the simplest is to measure the distance between the bottom surface of the red part and the top of the mast hole. Then you divide the gap by the previous distance to get the % you need to add in the long axis. that will slightly deform the angled contact between the 2 parts, but at least the gap will be reduced and your parts will stay strong.
Of course, best option is to modify the file :slight_smile: Fusion360 is free for home use…


The screw head is held in the red part, goes thru the green and screws into the motor for a complete unit, splitting at the widest will cause me to find longer screws which are kinda hard to find.


The screw length is one reason, but there is another one:

The split at the bottom allows the front part to kind of stay in place when you do the assembly.

The screws are going through both parts and screwing into the motor, so the assembly sequence is to put the front part around the wires exiting the mast, pass the wires thought the intermediate part and connect the motor.
To either put shrink tubing or electrical tape on the connections comfortably, you need the wires to be long enough.
Once that’s done, you can fold the wires on the other side of the mast and bring the intermediate part and the motor in the right place to screw it all together.

The longer front part makes the whole operation a lot easier :slight_smile:


@Halifax21, I had a similar clamp part.
After 3 or 4 times, sharp edges of mast cut my 3d printed part ( with vibration also probably)
I found solution with adding bended aluminum sheet, after that problem was solve

Initial part and alu bended sheet :

Actual shape of 3d printed part :


@Mat, What are you using in the water inlet hole on the front mast clamp to connect the water line?


i used that one:

but anything that will screw in the plastic with a barb fitting on the other side should work :slight_smile:


@Mat How did you make your 3d printer make those timelapses!? So much cooler than my GoPro mounted on the side of my printer! haha.

Also, can you list the materials you used to epoxy your motor? I am going to make a shopping list as I’m going to go through the whole procedure myself. Any tips and tricks would be great too! Fingers crossed!


So for the timelapse:
I add a small dummy piece in one corner in the back (red arrow)
So after each layer on the main part, the head has to go to the back for the layer on the dummy one.
When it gets there, the magnets attached to the main arm (yellow arrow) pass in front of a magnetic switch.
It send a signal to a microcontroller (blue arrow).
The microcontroller then use an infrared LED (green arrow) to tell the camera to take a picture (kind of like a TV remote).
I did the first few tests changing the camera battery every hour as the camera has to stay on to not lose focus… but when doing 12 hours prints it becomes painful, so I found a adapter to keep it plugged straight to the wall …


To epoxy the motor, i used resin research epoxy, same as for my surfboards.

On the rotor side, I used a piece of acrylic tube that fits right inside as I had it on hand, but any sheet of plastic stiff enough to make a “wall” to cast the resin in the gaps between the magnets should be good. I also used some clay to close the bottom.

on the stator side, i brushed the epoxy on the winding, used liquid tape on the leads to keep some flexibility and some adhesive lined shrink tubing.

@Vicdes2 wrote a clean guide: google doc