Sorry, not clear to me where/what the problem is. Maybe you can post a photo.
I find that the motor, the reducer, the tube and the different parts are heavy and are fixed only to the mat of the foil, I find that it is not enough. I thought to add a piece in 3 d to support the rear part of the fixed tube on the fuselage
have you encountered this problem or is your attachment to the mat sufficient?
I think he answered it here:
Has anyone tried those ones ? Said to be watertight. Haven’t tried myself.
What is everyone using to glue the Aluminium tube to the PLA back mast fitting. Can i use the epoxy i use to do my board or will it melt the PLA?
I used this: Loctite Epoxy Plastic Bonder 0.85-Fluid Ounce Syringe (1363118 ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044FBB8C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UePHAbT9PGQ09. Good bond between the plastic and the aluminum. My mast mount is printed in ASA but I assume it works with PLA too. Best do a test on scraps before.
PLA is very reistant to chemicals. You won’t hurt that stuff with household chemicals. I don’t think even acetone does something to it. Epoxy is also very safe to use with most materials including styrofoam. Epoxy doesn’t melt by the way. It only gets a bit softer with temperature until it starts to burn.
@pacificmeister: did you get the solder on motor cables failed due to the heat? I’m asking because after all the effort in removing the enamel and solder a proper junction, I tested the motor-gearbox inside of its tube and it settled so good that it never came out again!
Please, let me know before the first sea-trial, if it’s risky I will pull the motor out somewhat, even if I’m afraid to have to break something. Heat conducing grease made the motor stick to the tube.
Hi @MaB, I never had issues in the pod with my solders. The solder came off at the banana plugs in the ESC box. In a way I was glad that happened, acted like a thermal fuse. Else other things might have fried next. I think it was due to a local heat up at the plugs which were not rated for this current. The small (think 5mm) plugs had the advantage that I could fiddle the cables WITH plugs through my waterproof cable glands, therefore easily take off the mast and disassemble things. I could even pull the cables through the mast with these plugs. But the plugs were too small. So with bigger appropriately sized plugs disassembling would not be possible anymore, therefore I decided switch to crimps. It’s a quick dremmel job I f I need to take it apart. Not perfect but works.
Thank you! Good to hear that. Wise of tour experience with thin awg12 ESC I chose an AWG8 ESC and same size mast wires with xt150 plugs, they should resist.
Hope the same for the silicone seal where cable goes into the pod… I could not seal both sides so I truly wish the water side silicon mess I applied would do.
A big thank you to pacificmeister. I would like to be able to modify the pieces. With Fusion 360, I can not do it. Is it normal ? If no, how do you change the pieces given by paciicmeister.
Thank you for your help.
You need to open the .f3d file not the step or iges.
For example, I would like to change the diameter of the sealmount (see picture)
I would like to change from 22,40mm to 22mm H7. Because I try to make this in alu (au4g).
I am a newbie in fusion ; so, not easy for me but I try
Open the sketches on the left. Go through each of the sketches until you find the one that dimensions the circle with 22.4mm. Then change that value to 22mm. „End sketch“ and the part will update. Use the I key to measure the new diameter.
I noticed that some builders are also using screws to attach the aluminium tube to the PLA parts. Are these grub screws or is the PLA drilled to take a screw. If so, what size is best.
Yes on the downstream side, just a couple little grub or countersunk screws to avoid twisting. Make sure not to drill too deep and stay outside (downstream) of the O-rings to keep it watertight.
I can totally recommend to use Helicoil or generic thread inserts when you want to have a strong thread, they are not that cheap but open up a lot of possibilities when used correct.
Can somebody help to tell me how to join the duct with the struts. I can not figure out a way to do it. I have tried to combine the two bodies to one for a number of hours and I can not figure out how to do it. The hub is clearly joined with the struts as can be seen from the first analysis. Thanks
Hello! How long did Parker last?
It lasted about a month (couple hours runtime) until i had that pulsing. Make sure you have a soft start and get out of the water when it pulses. I am now pretty sure that on/off pulsing I experienced came from noise from the esc at higher loads affecting the PWM signal to the ESC.