Pacificmeister Build Info and CAD Sources


@pacificmeister for thrust bearing lubrication, how much grease needs to be in the seal housing? I’m thinking too little grease will cause the thrust bearing to over heat and to much will work it’s way through to the motor and cause issues. Has anyone had issues with the thrust bearing getting hot.
Thankyou for your help


We fill the entire compartment with it :slight_smile: Act as an extra seal if the shaft seals break as well.


Hi Fabien
I chose a 12v pump to cool my ESC, it must connect to the receiver powered by the output of the nozzle in 5.5v
should it feed différently ?


If it’s 12V, use a small DC-DC booster step up from UBec to pump. I bought a 1€ module and it works just fine. You can set even just 9 or 10V for less pressure out of the pump


Thank you for your help
I found to bangood an ajustable output voltage ubec to 12v and input 2-6 s power battery.
But my receiver remote support only 5,5 v i think
Can you send me schématic or picture to connexions

The Ubec is a device that reduces the battery voltage down to a value suitable for our RC receiver module, usually something from 5 to 6.5V (check your own).
So you will have battery>UBec>receiver, Ubec should be in parallel to ESC.
Then, if you need to power other electronics or a pump (like in your case), you should get a double output Ubec (expensive, not easy to source, expecially able to cope with 12S battery) or just parallel a cheap and simple device like Step Up boosters, they cost a fraction of an Ubec, you need to solder 2 wires on input and 2 on output, place them inside a piece of heatshrink or tape them (to insulate components), and that’s it. The video shows how to set the desired output Voltage, should be done by applying the same voltage you have on input (5.5V in your case).
Mine is inside black heatshrink tube so it make no sense to take a photo…
The same device, called “Buck Converter” or DC-DC step down, is used to reduce voltage with very high efficency.
You can’t squeeze lots of power out of those step up or step down, anyway. But to run a stupid membrane pump (less than 0.5A at 12V) you won’t have any problem.
LAst thing to keep in mind: switching converters are all about frequency, so they might cause disturbs, keep them not in contact with RC receiver and use a ferritis round core on the signal wire (like Pacificmeister and others do, just wrap the cable around the ferritis ring. - you can souce that on Hobby King or on the internet, very cheap)


@pacificmeister Hi, could you indicate which is the good duct ? Is it this 1: or this 2/ ?

Could we assemble these 2 ducts with the seamount ?Are the threats the same ?

The way is long !!!



Hi Mauro
Thank you for’your Help
I would buy and test it


Hi @cristophe, #1 works but has lot of drag at high speed. I did create #2 with a lower drag NACA0012 profile, but think I made the struts too thin. Haven’t modified and tested it yet. Both should fit the same sealmount yes. Only the duck ring diameter is different so adjust the prop if you try #2. Good luck and keep us posted.


Has anybody replied to @Ant about using a water jet turbine with much higher rpm and save the gearbox?