Flying Nemo from North Queensland Australia


#1

This is another @pacificmeister build thruster mounted on a Naish Hover Hydrofoil with a modified windsurfer board.
SSS 56104 motor
Neugart PLE40 gearbox
Seaking 130A ESC (Water cooled)!
4 X Turnigy 12000mah batteries


#2

Congrats, Awesome build! Love the colours!


#3

Thankyou @Hiorth The idea to modify a windsurfer board was inspired by your first build.


#4

Very nice! The large electronics bay is the way to go in my opinion.


#5

Thankyou @MaxMaker The electronics bay is 600mm X 220mm X 80mm deep. I needed it large to accommodate the 4 batteries.


#6

Looks good!

I’m building my board at the moment, how important is it to have an indent for the box? I’m considering just strapping it to the top but I have to choose soon since I’m fiber glassing it.


#7

Thankyou @Filip. I guess it’s a personal choice. I like the look of the board having a flush top and I guess it eliminates any chance of an external box getting in the way. A lot more work though.
Good luck with your build


#8

how does your lid seal to the electronics box? looks like there are 20 screws? isn’t that a huge pain when you need to charge batteries?


#9

rogjalon looking very nice setup.
Looks like you got a rubber seal for the lid, did you make yourself…what type of rubber is it?
have you tested this in water?
I got a similar lid with lots of bolts and a rubber seal but still getting water into the compartment? I need re think my idea?


#10

Hi @cwazy1. There is 28 screws in this compartment. I use a battery operated drill to change them quickly it only takes a few minutes. I did look at comercial hatches but there wasn’t anything suitable available.


#11

Thankyou @morgansteven1970
The seal in the compartment lid is a EPDM sponge seal 3mm x 20mm. The joins are glued together with super glue. This seal compresses very well. The lid is made from 6mm marine grade plywood. I have tested it by pushing it under water for a few minutes and it didn’t leak at all. The bolts are only 60mm apart, so I think this helps too.


#12

Love it ! Question : the batteries and the ESC look to be in the same box, right ? Maybe some temp fireproof separation to add between the ESC and the batteries for safety issue and money issue if the ESC ever wants to catch on fire ?


#13

Thankyou @philgib that’s is a good idea to have some separation from the batteries.


#14

Awesome looking setup mate! How have you lined the inside of the battery component? Is it all fibreglassed? It’s the one job I have to


#15

Thank you @g.gregory8 Yes I used 4 layers of epoxy glass.


#16

I used my efoil for the first time yesterday. All went well for the first ten minutes.
But then, my duct came unscrewed from the seal housing, hit my prop and pull the shaft out of the coupling. Bugger, I knew I should have secured it better. The end result is a complete rebuild of the motor pod.


#17

How do people prevent this? screwing it on really tight? I suppose you could also glue it.


#18

I had it really tight. To tight to undo by hand. However the water pressure against the struts was enough to undo it. I would highly recommend either screwing it or glueing it in place.


#19

Add a grub screw or epoxy it in.


#20

IF you use silicone as glue on the 3d printed threads, you might be able to get it off again, given that you dont use too much.