Where to place the circuit breaker?

About to order my electrics and will be using the following

ARC200 Going to mount it on a metal plate with an air gap underneath.
120 Marine Circuit Breaker
2 x Turnigy 6S 20000 mah 22.2v lipos (12s)
No water cooling, my mast doesn’t allow for it and I don;t want the faff and complication

I am using 6000KW Flying rodeo prototype motor

I will also use one of these 6V 1200mah Ni-Mh batteries to power the receiver

6v

The question I have is where do I place the circuit breaker within the circuit? And can I use this as an emergency kill switch by simply glueing a powerful magnet to it or will that kind of sudden break damage the esc. As you can tell my electronic knowledge is fairly limited.

See for one option :slight_smile:

1 Like

Wiring diagrams:
@pacificmeister’s: https://docs.google.com/presentation/d/1R-xGHFiE4-W5xvgtcqZwK6GiXNNgidkO9K7Q_OYXZUo/edit?usp=sharing
found here:
Pacificmeister Build Info and CAD Sources

@Vincentbraillard’s where the reed switch controls the BMS:
Safety with eFoils

Two years after the first wiring diagrams were posted, what have we learned ? A circuit breaker in the battery box, a leash activated Reed Switch in the ESC box : would we do that differently today ? Maybe we should talk about that in “Safety with eFoil” ?

Thanks for all the info

Does anyone know if the ARC 200 has any built in safety functions like temperature cut off or surge protection

Also should I add some kind of temperature alarm?

The arc200 has both temperature and current protection. I don’t think that there is any overvoltage protection.

Thanks @Jezza did you use a circuit breaker with your ARC 200? And do you think I’m going to be ok without water cooling with the set up above assuming I mount it on a metal plate

I have never bothered with a circuit breaker.

On one setup I used a 200x60x10mm aluminium slab as a heatsink without any watercooling. I then set the ESC to cut off at 85°C to avoid any damage.

On the other I run watercooling which keeps the ESC below 60°C

Both systems are properly set up with the RC failsafe though.

Thanks @Jezza, excuse my ignorance but what do you mean when you say an RC failsafe? Is that a separate unit?

When the receiver loses signal, then it tells the arc200 not to drive the motor. So if you had throttle and the motor is spinning. If you then suddenly switched off the remote then the motor would stop.

Thanks for the advice @Jezza which RC failsafe do you use? I have had a look online an there seems to be a lot of choice.

The failsafe is built into the receiver. I use the Maytech waterproof remote.

Build has stalled a bit as can’t get the hatch 100% waterproof. It’s about 95% at the moment

Did you leave the o ring gasket in that came with the hatch?

Yeah, I left that in. Otherwise the other gasket will just fall into that area.
Have you figured out where the leak is coming from?

No it seems to be coming from multiple locations.

To be honest it’s not bad but even a small amount of water is going to cause big problems

Think I am just going to have to go at it with more sealant

Is it coming through the seal underneath the hatch, or the seal with the lid?

Bit of both I think which is annoying.

To be honest I still want to persevere with the hatch if I can

The hatch I did seals perfectly so it is possible. I used a lot of marine silicone under the hatch and that seemed to work there. You clearly have a gap in the hatch seal near no.5 which needs to be closed. I used CA glue for this and then pushed the join together till it dried.
I don’t know how flat the hatch has gone down on your board though so that could be an issue too.
How long and how deep did you submerge the board before it leaked?