Volker’s Build - 80100 18650-30Q


Leave a like, If this post/thread ist helpful for you :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:

Specs:
APS 80100 directdrive
Mastclamp
Prop mount
Propeller
Flier 400a ESC & electronics
12s16p 18650 30q DIY 48AH
René‘s Foil
DIY shaped Board

Weight:
9kg Battery
7kg Board
2kg Motor
1kg ESC, wire, pump etc…
2kg Mast
1.6kg Foil
22,5kg total

Special thanks to @Mat @s9tim @ELEVATE.rocks @superlefax and all others of this forum, witch made it easy for me to gather all information i needed.

3 Likes

Hi Volker - what is a 18100 wetdrive? Is that a new motor they have at APS?

80100 sorry :joy:

Thank you

Battery build
First of all, its not mine, i’ll go 14s14p or 12s16p Samsung 30q.
These packs are 6s10p in 12*5 format.

First, hotglueing them together:

Spotwelding them together:
I always use kWeld with about 1400A. Cause of the format, i doubled 10*0,2mm pure Nickel to stay in the safe side.

For the connection: First Split AWG8

presolder the Nickel stripes:

Solder the splitted cable to the stripes

And then spotweld it to the pack:

Adding Balancer cable and some shrinktubes,
same, first solder to nickel, then spotweld:

Secure the pack additional with glasinforced tape:

Finally the packs get hotshrinked:

Update
Got my Packs finished: 2 6S16P
2,1kWh / 44,4V / 48Ah

Now i need a Motor, wich enables foiling with 700W, then i would have 3h riding time :thinking:

5 Likes

Very nice but it had a question, i never built a pack yet , i have everything do it but I prefer to go with nese modules just to be on the safe side …
i really like your terminal wires

  • a reason why you didn’t use insulated paper ring on the + side ?
  • why did you choose to double voltage and just a part of amp ? , on my built with nese module the copper strip hook amp between cells (8p) , then a single connection for voltage raise ( proven to hold more then 200a)
    I would have double the strip this other way ( I might be wrong …)

I dont use those rings cause: the cells already have a plastic insulation, and additional a heatshrink. Never had trouble with Bikepacks or esc8 packs. Using a good spotwelder with enough A doesnt really heats the weld up.
I do not recommend to solder LiIon cells. That can end up pretty dangerous.

Sorry, the second Question i dont understand.
I doubled the current path (s) with 2* 10 * 0,2mm Nickel, and added 1 strip 7 * 0,15 to make the connection for parallel , as far there is almost no current.
Watch out an look close, its an unusual pack, maybe you confound s and p?

I was planning to built my pack like this one , but I would have double the P ( like the 7mm)
May be using 27mm strip ( 2x 5p) then 10mm each row (s)
I may be wrong be I was look at my pack (nese) I always through I was more important to double P then S

You have to double there, where the current is flowing.
The pack would work even without the p-stripes, they are only for balance charging.

And these packs couldnt be welded with 27mm stripes.
These packs are 6s. Look at the Terminal, there you can see 2rows with 5cells. These are all parallel (10). In serial with next 2 rows in serial with next… and so on

The terminal wire where double on P , i just would have done the same way on each

Yes, thats only, so spread the current equal to all 10 cells.

I could have doubled them too, but its 2mm² Nickel, and each cell has direct path to terminal wires, thats ok.
In the middle the Nickel has to take the current from 2 parallel cells, thats the reason i doubled there

Can’t wait to test them! v_s is so kind to weld them for me! Thanks again it just looks fantastic!

Right I had in head the fuse bus style , so yes double the S where current flows :face_with_hand_over_mouth:

1 Like

Board build

I guess i’ll name it Pink Panther :joy:

Building the Box:

Bandsaw & joining the Parts

Let the Hotwire fun begin:

Shaping with my special shaping tool

Its my first Monoski, i have learned on, still kept IT, no one knows, what it could be good for.
Gives a nice rough shape:

More wirecutting, and a bit of sanding

Laminating, what a awfull mess


Innards ready to reinforce with glass


The Mastmount ist reinforced with hardwood, and transfers and spreads the force into the Box

Final Resin Layer

Some imperfections, but who Cares?

Lucky me, everything fits inside :blush:


The Hatch is 8mm Plywood with one layer 200g glass and a couple screws

First water contact, with jumping around on board, everything is waterproof, no leakage :+1:

5 Likes

I’m really liking the look of this! What is that pink material? I will probably end up building my own board. Any information would be greatfully received. :sunglasses:

1 Like

Its just usual XPS, used for thermal insulation (house basement)
125 * 60 * 14cm
You can get them in various thickness, i was looking for 16cm thickness, but i would have to order a whole pack, so i only got the 14
The thickest part of the board ist now 9,5cm
150cm long, 55cm wide.

About 55Liter

80100
The APS got only a slight touch up:
Some magnet gap filling, and a coat of epoxy.
Shaft shortend with angelgrinder on a lathe.


Stator same. One coat with epoxy and shortend the wires.

Bearings will be switched later to open ones
Jump to Bearing drama
Update:
Switched to these beautys:

3 6801 12/21/5mm
1 6809 45/58/7mm

1 Like

Mastclamp
I am happy, that my first print fits Well :blush:
Mount 80100 to RL Mast


I used Tinkercad. I designed a unique system, that allows water to flow direct into the mast, so no need of a tube inside the mast.

These files are printable without support:

2 Likes

Very nice design but why a vertical wall only on the right hand side of the front part ? Rigidity ? It stops water going backward 190722%20Pod and supposed to cool the motor down.

The Wall on one side, is to push water into the mast. Its angeled, so i can print without supports.
Small holes in the mast act as sieve


The other side has no wall, cause there are the cables.

3 Likes

Prop Cap

Since the one i found, didnt fit, i tinkered one myself.

Propeller mount

3 Likes