Troubleshooting burnt off Seaking ESC


Yes, two FULL 8aweg wires fit in there, and if you take the motor wires which are smaller awg, you strip a longer section, then fold it and put then use two set screws, then solder motor wires in there. Works amazing for high current and now worries about desoldering or wires pulling out


Did you see my post below Hiorth on how I did the 8mm connectors?


Got a quick question regarding escs. Lets say its rated 100A. Is that considered as an input current or motor phaze current? Or is it just marketed as input current with(out) phaze monitoring/limiting? The way i understand it, esc is basically dc-dc switch so i am guessing there is different amount of amps on “both ends” of esc. Could that be a reason for some of unexplained destruction scenarios? I know there should be spec sheet but we all know not every1 shows it.


On the vesc + metr for your cellphone you can track battery and motor current, you will see that motor phase current is often much higher than battery current.

So I think that the rating is battery/input current and that the high phase current driven by our large props may kill esc’s.

Still there is probably many other ways that is more likely to kill esc’s. Water ingress, poor soldering/connectors, uneccisary shaft friction, mismatch prop size, fake esc’s, no heat cutoffs, poor cooling+++

Our seaking is still going strong (1.5 year, 80h+) , I was out in the surf with it the other day. We have also done hydrofoil tow ups with it


Phaze currents strictly depend on the motor type wiring right? (If we disregard copper/friction losses, “human error” and possibly bad esc build aka ideal scenario?)


This link is dead unfortunatly



Option: Castle Connections 8mm Bullet Connectors

Claimed to be 300 A continuous rated, Amazon, 15 bucks per 3 pairs.

5.5 mm version shown with the 8mm for reference (rated at 170 A)