Hello Pacificmeister,
maybe you know already, but here you can find a calculation tool for toothed belt drive. It gives you everything like the shaft offset, max power …
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So interesting to watch your video! I really like the belt drive idea!
Btw, Is Vitali your neighbour?
Love the setup and work you put into it but I’m building a efoil/board as well and im of the KISS type of method of keeping it simple stupid. but why not just use a SK3 6374 149kv outrunner direct drive? I know the outer can is I little bigger but with proper farings, the benefits v.s drag I think would pay off. The outrunner would have the torq needed.
What caused most of your leaks in the electronics housing, so we can avoid them?
Hi @Chris_wilson. Done it and it burned up in seconds. See here: For who try/have tried direct drive with outrunner - #184 by pacificmeister - Propulsion System (Motor, Gears) - FOIL.zone. With a milled motor mount attached to an aluminum mast for better cooling this may work… but heat transfer is a problem, especially also because you will likely run this motor at max capacity to get up on the foil, if it even has enough power with its 2250W. But don’t want to discourage you from trying, I agree it would be fantastic if you get it working. I am all for KISS and cheap setups. Good luck and please keep us posted.
If your PLA prints leak like a sieve like mine did initially, look at my two posts here: 3D printing, how do you do it? - #60 by Flo - Builds - FOIL.zone (3D printing, how do you do it? - #104 by Flo - Builds - FOIL.zone)
I printed my ESC’s watercooler for today with those settings and glued it to aluminium stock. The test with an airpressure of 3 bars showed no signs of leakage. I can only recommend investing some time in a watertight print test, it easily pays pack in saved time for epoxy or paint coats.
If you are using Cura as Slicer for 3D printing here is my current watertight print profile for cura3.2.1
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I assume opening and closing the lid a lot damaged the seal. Nothing visible but it seems to get worse. I now put a lot of marine grease on the seal before closing. These electronic enclosures are not made for constant opening and closing, so not ideal for prototyping and testing. If I’d do it again today, I would use a Seahorse box for electronics, probably a slightly smaller one than what I use for my batteries. This box has kept a great seal and I open/close it a lot more than the electronics box.
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@pacificmeister, thanks for the info I’ve accumulated a lot of motors, pumps and esc for a surfboard build, now i want to do a foil so the custom 68mm pumps wont work, the water cooled T20 is rated @5000W but has 720kv so need to gear it for a prop vs pump.
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Dear Pacifc Mister,
If you wear this type of belt maybe you will not have any more problems.
Hope this helps,
Ivan
A plain ribbed belt won’t have the “grip” to drive this kind of setup, it will almost definelty slip, a bit more trial and error pacificmeister and you’ll get it working.
You could try flanged cogs it’ll help with keeping the belt aligned
Hi, Chris_wilson, I finally see on the forum an impeller from high quality aluminum. It’s clear from the photos that you have almost everything to produce a quality jet propulsion. Only some components that are not too stressed can be printed from cheap material on a 3D printer.
Dear Nathan,
This would only happen if something rigid caught the prop. In the case of friction of the propeller in the water this type of belt will not slip but protect the motor and consequently the damage.
In practice this already happens with some heavy work tools with this type of belt.
Regards,
Ivan
Thanks @Ivan. I don’t have experience with these belts and pulleys. What do the pulleys for these belts look like and do these work without a 3rd tensioner wheel? No room for a 3rd wheel. But for tension I can update the model to create any type of belt tension and with the 2 parts design I can lever a belt to any tension during assembly without problems. FYI, I am using these pulleys right now:
It’s a pleasure to try to help,
This type of pulley is very efficient and ensures that the belt stays on the rails. A tensioner is not required. Just make the mechanism with the correct distance between the pulleys.
Another important point is that any simple winch is capable of producing this type of pulley with the exact diameter you need, because all the work of the mill is circular and in the same direction.
If possible for you, I suggest that you go to an electric tool store and ask to see up close an electric planer that works with this type of pulley and pulley. This can greatly help you to see the operation and feel the necessary tension of the belt with your own hands.
Links:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-Power-Tool-Planer-Cutter-Head-Pulley-for-Makita-1900-Electric-Planers/282827749303?epid=932360055&hash=item41d9d8f7b7:g:t- hello guys xab9nE
But this type of belt needs quite high tension to transfer torque without slipping. This high tension gives a lot of radial load to the bearings.
Why you use belt anyway? Why not gears, efficency would be better.
If you use belt, check for HTD (high torque drive) belt type. I think a HTD 5 with 15-20mm belt width should be able to handle the torque.
Thanks for the details @Ivan, I will consider it. Let’s see Joan the next belt holds up.
@Toto44 thanks. I thought about gears but wasn’t sure what types and how the speed ratings are. I also didn’t like the idea of grinding noisy gears (as in the planetary gears), the belts run pretty quiet, probably even quieter with the belt Ivan suggests. But can you recommend gears? I was trying to find the HTD5 belts/pulleys in that size without luck, I am using them on the skateboard.
In case you want to try gears, I would recommend a steel gear on the motorshaft, and a nylon gear on the propshaft.
Here you can get what is necessary:
http://www.atlantadrives.com/pinions.htm
I think Module 1,5 can handle the forces…
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Hi Toto44,
I would never do a nylon pulley for a belt that will work at great rpm. The nylon simply melts!
Aluminum or brass are easy to work on the cutter and withstand high temperatures.
You can even make circular holes in the part to decrease the weight and possibly the temperature caused by the friction with the belt.
In reference to the nylon gear, I believe @Toto44 is talking about using spur gears (no pulleys involved). Utilizing a steel gear with a nylon gear will reduce noise and friction in the system over using two steel gears.