The Max Maker Build


Yes thanks we got those setup in Java already.
We tested 13 different setups today, still have another 26 more for next week.
Its interesting how different props and blades feel, sound, perform, and push water. By far the java props felt the smoothest but the versions we used didn’t perform as well as our impeller setup. Going to try many more setups and try more javaprops since they are easy to 3D print and hold up well.


Max download files within one week. .iges an SW files. Not tested on your motor yet so the hub might need adjustments. Let me know how you’d like to modify it. Sorry but I don’t use Fusion


Can someone convert the above .iges file to SVG or STL. I have purchased the same motor. Thanks!


I converted the Solidworks File to MaB-70110-142.stl.
I hope this is ok with @MaB, I’ll delete it if you want. Thanks for sharing your props, it helps with my own Javaprop work, I have however still not understood how you scale the prop sections from the javaprop iges to arrive at your pieces of propeller art. @s9tim please be aware that this is an untested prop. Tests are welcomed however I think.


Thank you for finishing the job! I had no time to upload the stl, @s9tim check the pin cave size and position, I’ve roughly measured it from motor cad but not tested it’s 8mm depth, 4mm diameter. Same the shaft, is it 12mm?


@Flo, define 4 or 5 planes, rooth to tip, perpendicular to the blade, then “cut with surface” using first plane hub side, select the plane and “sketch”-convert entity-select that section, done.
Repeat for each plane, delete last piece of tip, now loft all the sketch to get the same blade but editable… then I start with first sketch and “scale entity” select profile, select “mass center”(red arrows point). To move the profife cord wise, either select LE point or Trailing edge, NEVER move the section sketch around ir you get funny blades! From my Solidworks file you can see some passages


Its printing right now. Will take another 15h I think.

Unfortunately I cannot cut this Prop on my CNC because of the undercuts. Maybe I could cut it in two parts and then join it with screws and pins.


Can you not cut one side, then flip it and cut the other?


Nope. That was the initial thought, but there are undercuts. I can only split it in two parts, machine them from two sides and then add them back together. Will do that for the final prop.


Max, test it to see if it fit motor and the pitch is fine, then would be possible to refine or mod the design for simpler CNC cutting. I’ve no experience for 3 axel machine, for props.


I still want to try casting one from aluminium. I mean it would make for a good fish shredder at least :innocent:
But I think some balancing would be necessary for this, oh the feature creep is bad with me on this. I think 3d printed will have to do. Sadly the Autodesk universe only opens MaB‘s Files as a single solid. But I will get it with your explanation. Thanks.


Casting would be nice, but you need so much bulky and dirty equipment for that. I don’t want to have that lying around all the time.


an alternative to aluminum casting, but still potentially better performing than 3d printed part is: Urethane or epoxy castings in silicon mold… potentially adding some fibers may be ( isn’t @virus doing some carbon props kind of like that?)
Making 2 parts molds is quite straightforward, and there is a huge lot of choice of casting material: rigid, tough…

Smooth-on had a website with lots of examples and with detailed material properties for each material.

one thing i learned the hard way: it’s casting, so there is some shrinking, the mold will be smaller than the model, and the final part will be smaller than the mold… it’s a few %, but enough to make o-ring leak a lot :slight_smile:


Thats my alternative. I personally can get my CNC to cut it somehoe. I love those smooth-on videos on youtube. Their silicone is quite pricey though. You can also 3D print the mould.


I want to give a try to molding. SW has a nice feature for mold makind even though a little tricky with propeller and airfoil profile. Split mold are simpler to CNC enen on 3 axis, did a few out of MDF to build full carbon hydrofoil, but now I don’t have access to cnc router anymore. @MaxMaker test this and when worth ti build let’s do the molds


Today I tested the prop that MaB designed. It had a lot of thrust! The motor is mounted to a long steel rod. I was holding on for dear life. Scarry!

My Ampmeter (clamp style) measured up to 30A from the batteries while the motor spun underwater. I find that strange. Should it not be more?

Problem 1: The motor lost steps a few times as you hear towards the end.

Problem 2: My Ampeter once kept going up slowly from 10-90 A for a whole minute even when disconnected and the VESC turned off. Is that a bug?


The best way to see what’s happening with the vesc is to use the vesc tool and run the live data tab on a laptop with the logging turned on or get a cheap bluetooth module like metr module you can then see the amps from the battery and motor individually for a more accurate number the battery current is generally always less than motor current. 30a could be about right as I have two 6374 motors that draw 40a from the battery and 120ish amps for the motors. As for the multimeter they do that sometimes especially in the cheap ones, I have several the only ones that dont fluctuate a lot are my fluke ones.


I guess so… 30 is not real or not what I calculated! Consider that propulsion props will “unload” the motor when you hit a certain speed. Don’t know if you can consider the 8 or 9ms but for sure, when you’re planning you can feel the motor to “gain vitality”, don’t know how to describe that… But it revs more free and you can feel the board flying faster while the amps raises not that much. Take a photo of your pod with the propeller!


I just ordered one from Alien Power Systems, so i’ll Be giving it a try. I agree it looks like the ideal motor (waterproof). I just hope it has enough power.


From what Jezza has experienced, the 3,2kW motor is not cooled at all and the max continuous power you can expect from it is more 2000W than 3200. Above 2000W, there is a pretty high risk of burning the motor.
One solution would be to poor Oil in.