Seaking 130A HV died another time


#21

Overheating at full speed, in dynamic condition is strange, it is about the point of lowest current draw. Is your cooling working fine? I have a cooling pump fail by braking impeller shaft (with ceramic guide shaft holding it in place), it was still making noise and spitting some water with no pressure but no useful fluid flow in closed system.


#22

That’s an interesting point. I bought the Seaking in Germany. Could be that it was a faked one.

I haven’t measured the temp unfortunately. I just know that is was getting quite hot. On the new ESC I will install an temperature buzzer like the lipo alarm thing:

DC 12V Red LED Digital Thermometer High Low Alarm -60~125C Temperature with Temp Probe Sensor B3950 10K Temperature Meter
http://s.aliexpress.com/iMBvuEfe?fromSns=Copy to Clipboard


#23

New to the forum however I experienced a similar issue.

My initial setup:

BATTERY - Multistar 20,000 mAh 10c (22.2v)
ESC - SeaKing 130A HV
MOTOR - SSS 56114 (132A Max)

I believe that the motor ended up pulling to much amperage, thus straining the ESC (which started through smoke into the living room like the forth of July) and then caused my receiver to self combust and start on fire.

Since then I have replaced all of the components,which in doing so required all new soldered joints. The only difference is that the motor is now the SSS 56104 model that has been talked about alot on here. This model only draws the (88A Max) which I’m sure is why PacificMeister specified it.

Was in to much of a rush and quick ordered the parts, which in turn ended up costing me 6 fresh Benjamin’s


#24

Copper crimp instead of soldering?


#25

I used these Copper crimps and found it quite difficult to crimp them on my vise.


#26

I originally started with a VESC, the. To the seawing 130Abut it would cut out with overhead after a couple minutes of riding so i got a larger esc that could handle the current much easier.

My thinking, if wires or any electronic part gets way to hot to touch its undersized and is a fire risk. Im using 400A esc with 8awg and watercooled.

Desoldering can happen really easily with 10awg wires with the currents we all run. Two ways around this, use higher end silver based solder that can handle much higher temps, or heavy duty crimp connectors and be sure to use the proper heavyduty crimp tool for propery connection.


#27

How do you limit current so you don’t fry anything? Go with a lower amperage fuse? I have a 150A fuse and using a seaking 130A, 100kV/4000W motor
I’m thinking this might be too high. Maybe I should switch to a 90-100A fuse. What do you think?


#28

If you lower the fuse it sjust going to pop all the time, that will not resolve the issue. You need to lower your current by changing the prop setup, or increasing your voltage to higher S rating, or get a better ESC that can handle real current for more than 10-30 seconds.

That esc blows on most users, its not build for a human transporting watercraft.

As for limiting your current a VESC ESC can do this with simple programming. We now have a powerful vesc design for up to 170A continious. It willbe going into Production shortly as we designed it for jet surfboards and efoils.


#29

Yes, I get your point but I should have been more detailed. I don’t want to run over
80A…actually much less(maybe around 40A max) and I was wondering if there is a way to limit current so that I can tune in a lower current draw(by increasing board size, changing prop pitch, using a higher aspect ratio wing, etc. etc…) to run more efficiently. A vesc is a good idea. I just wondered if there is another way. Something that limits the amount of current draw without shutting everything down. I don’t care about speed. I just want to find out a min current draw to lift out of the water. It seems to me that many are using this esc with great success…at least that’s what it sounds like.


#30

The seaking 130A has been performing well on all builds that have been put together well not had any leaks. There are also a few guys using 120A ESC’s that are having good success (me included). The problem is coming down to bad assembly, water leaks, bad cooling and weed/other bits getting stuck in the prop. It’s been very well demonstrated that RC parts are capable if assembled correctly.
It would simply be a nice to have if there was a cost effective VESC that could handle the higher current, but it’s not a necessity. Guys will still blow up purposely designed VESC’s much like they do with electric skateboards.


#31

Carry on using a 150A fuse (you may need some burst current at times). If there are any shorts, the fuse will blow.
You can then also put in an external temp shutdown to a relay or something. If the ESC becomes too hot, it can then just shut down either the receiver signal or battery power.


#32

@MikeL a simple way that worked for me with a setup was I just set the ESC throttle to max out at 75% throttle and this did the trick keeping amps low yet we still had full torque and speed while removing the high amp current when to much throttle is applied. lll the Flier ESC have this setting, not sure about SeaKing.

It is easy to blow up any ESC if the entire system is not balance using the right motor, prop, ESC, cooling, battery configuration.

As for hte 150A breaker, if you read the specs on the ones everyone seems to be using off ebay/amazon the 150A breaker will run for for a very long time well above 150A and never pop. We put ours to the test ran a motor and prop in our testing station at 200A for 15 seconds and the breaker never popped. If you have poor design setup and run 200A without knowing your ESC/Wires and/or connectors will melt down before that breaker in my opinion. Also, a BMS has built-in breaker to protect battery and ESC so a $12 breaker that may or many not work as we expect is not really needed if you ask me.


#33

I also don’t trust those circuit breakers. I think a standard fuse is enough if current is limited by the ESC and the fuse is well dimensioned. It is just for the case of a real failure to prevent something worse, so it doesn’t matter if you need to replace it.


#34

I just use a tinned copper wire of the right diameter in my battery pack as a fuse. I tested at which current those pop, but there are tables available too. Something along those values:


I did not compare those values above with my measurements. I just used a large resistor and a 60A 12V Supply and found the diameter for 50A. Now I use three 1cm pieces of tinned copper wire as a fuse. Unfortunatly I currently don’t remember the diameter.