Hi all, continuing on quest to build cheap e-board (aim is to plane, not fly), just decided to buy a deep tuttle => naish adapter and found an $80 40cm mast. My next step is to pick a motor and 3D print an enclosure for it. Initially hoping to do direct drive, I couldn’t find a good <$300 waterproof option. But I did find this one with a watercooling jacket for $120, the only problem being that it’s at 600KV. 1: has anyone tried using this motor?
Folks in these parts are using 5:1 reducers on such motors, but is this actually needed? What if I just keep the KVs, but use a smaller prop? I did a test run using an RC “boat” I just built, and it managed to get a SUP with human up to speed. The motor there is a HobbyKing 2040SL, which is rated at 4800KV, running at 220W off a 3S. It did stop in the process (not sure why), but just for fun here’s a video of this.
Say goodbye to the idea that engines are waterproof.
Maintenance and work are always on to keep them watertight.
Therefore I drive “wet” motors directly, which is not a problem. Maintenance is also faster and more effective.
Greetings Frank
I use two Rocket 56102 600KV’s (with 6S) in my jet board (not foil!).
They work for what I use them perfect. However. One of them got a little bit wet, and started to rust a bit, and I needed to take it apart, and clean it!
What do you mean “wet” motor— you just submerge it and clean later?
Any suggestions for keeping a brushless motor watertight? Seems doable except for the shaft coupling part. Any tips there?
And is it necessary? According to one video there’s a risk of small particles in the water getting into the bearings of the motor, is this the main issue?
Strange that they’d market and sell a water cooling jacket if that will cause damage to the motor.
The motor got wet as the lid of the box holding the motors and jets was leaking a little bit (fresh water). Some days later the bearings of the motor started rusting. Same with the allen screw (front and back of the motor). They should have used stainless steel allen screws)
The cooling jacket slides around the outer casing of the motor. So the water going into the cooling jacket is only touching the outer case of the motor for cooling.
Thanks for the details. Sounds like it’s no more waterproof than any other brushless motor. I might go for the Flipsky 6384 then since it seems to have better specs (200Kv). That said the cooling aspect of the jacket is appealing.
Will need to print a full housing for the thing to try and waterproof it, I suppose. Still somewhat unclear how to make it fully waterproof though, especially with a rotating shaft that can’t be too tightly constrained. Any waterproofing guides would be greatly appreciated!
@Kian, do you have a measurement spec sheet for the motor? Can’t seem to find one online. Also, what ESC are you using? I’m thinking of this 60A w/ 150A spikes, but not sure what the motor is like. VESC seems appealing for the electrical monitoring capabilities.
I am using ESC’s from Flier. Model: ESC 240 16S, and the motor did come with a spec sheet… However I can not find it at this moment.
I will have another look for it tomorrow.
Some specs.
Some info from the web.
Motor Specifications:
Item name: 600KV Brushless Motor
Watts: 6300W
Max voltage: 50V
Max Amps: 126A
Rotor poles: 4
IO: 1.8A
Kv(RPM/Volt): 600KV
Max RPM: 30000
Diameter: about 56mm
Length: about 102mm
Length of extend shaft: about 30mm
Shaft diameter: about 8mm
Connector: 8mm connector
Weight: about 1040g
Water Cooling Jacket Specifications:
Item name.: 56-L water cooling jacket
Color: black
Designed for: 56102 56112 RC boat brushless motor
Outlet fitting diameter: about 4mm
Jacket length: about 80mm
Jacket diameter: about 57mm
Item weight: about 100g
Come to think of it… the main advantage of this seems to be the water cooling jacket, but isn’t that mostly for when the motor is not submerged?
With the motor submerged, don’t you get the cooling benefits by default, perhaps even more so since there’s complete freedom for the water to be in contact with all parts of the motor? (I’m now leaning back towards the Flipsky6384…
Hey great videos @Kian! How did you mount the motor?
Neither motor (Flipsky 6384, Rocket 56102) seems to have screw holes in the back that I could use to screw on to a mastclamp… In contrast, the Flipsky 65161 seems to have the four in the back that most 3D printed mastclamps seem to be using. How are people working around this?
Flipsky 80100 motor seems to have everything necessary though… Should I be sketched about about using a skateboard motor underwater? Is there any actual difference?
The motors inside the aluminium box are on a 90 degree aluminium mount (see picture 1).
The aluminium box itself is “glued” to the board (used polyurethane foam).
It would be super interesting to see if a 3 inch prop would work as a direct drive. Obviously, 3S power isn’t going to cut it. I would think 10S minimum.
