Quick-and-dirty 63100-build from east germany

Here is a link to the prop adapted to 63100 geometry:

I print it with the trail downwards without any support. PETG with 250°C/65°C, 7mm brim on glass bed, 0.15mm. Without the need for support the printout is much cleaner, almost ready to use.

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Here is a link to the fixture to drill 2 symmetrical holes radial:

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Seeexy! I will check this one out as soon as possible. Thx

Here i found my lathe is not correct levelled:


:wink:

I think I want to try the 63100 motor also. Is there a mast clamp file that we can print ? And the rlboards hydrofoil comes with a Standard wing ? Or did you use a more slow wing ?

Hey louis,
I have just an .stl file for my mast which isn‘t the original rl-mast. And yes, it has a different shape. The only parts I bought from rl are: efoil-frontwing, backwing(+fin) and fuselage.

Thanks, any idea what size frontwing you have ?

So i am ready to go for vacation to southern france, not tested in water so far. Anything more to think about? Any more hints? I will try gong L windsurf foil on a BIC 293 OD board. Prop is commercial 7 1/4 x 6 BS, Sorry! Something went wrong!
cut down by 4 mm in diameter with NickW 's powerful VESC.
6mm plugs with hopefully watertight shrinking tube with inner glue:


Mast cable inlet, because i use deep tuttle and no holes through my board but the motor cable runs as one rubber protected 3 phase cable through the centerboard box.

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Nice setup. For the top part of a mast using a deep tuttle head, you are required to drill. However, to be more flush and to minimise water intake, it might be interesting to use a half pod or a mini pod plus @Gobbla 's solution type along 5cm of mast…1909%20Gobbla%20nose%20cap

Hi @kotnascher
I’m planning to build a couple battery packs without battery spacers to save room.
Can I ask if you got glued the batteries together and if you have had any issues with them heating up.
I read somewhere that when glued together the centre cells can heat up.

If you battery heats up or not mainly depends on your current flow and your „p“ number

Keep the current / cell low and you have no problem with heat

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I used double sided tape between the cells and strong head resistant tape on the outside, no problems with the heat so far.

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That’s great. I’ll give it a go. Thank you

Hi Julian, thanks for sharing this nice build! Which prop did you use for the results shown in your first post? The scaled (factor 0,78) version you mentioned is much smaller than the adapted one by PowerGlider in this thread.
Thanks.
Jan

Hey Jan,
the 0,78 scaled 3blade Version is ok but I had much better results with the same prob, but unscaled and as a 2 blade version.

Do you have a link or could you share an STL file?

Jup, there it is: v1.6 zweiblatt.stl - Google Drive

Thanks a lot. That saves me quite some time…

What is the small white connector sticking out of the pack used for? What width shrink wrap did you use?

Heyho. This is a standard 6s (7pin) JST-XH balance connector because I don’t use a BMS in my packs. The Shrinktube is 180mm (flat).