Quick-and-dirty 63100-build from east germany


Hey Guys,

i finished my 63100 build two months ago and since there were nearly no major issues i thought it’s time to share it with you.

First of all, “Renate” isn’t a shining example of ideal structural design ‘cause she is pretty ugly, fast build and i often used things I had lying around instead of buying the perfect piece. And the fact that I am lazy and impatient didn’t made it any better;)

Secondly, many thanks to this forum, especially superlefax who helped me all the way and preserved me more than one time from dumb mistakes.

The Board

It’s an old Windsurfer (around 200l, 3,2m) which I bought for 35 bucks und cutted to 1,35m length. I embedded a wooden 45x30x15cm electronics-box in front of the long metal thing which I took out and used the occurred channel as a wireway. I also applied 3 layers of 300g/m² glas fibre fabric on the underside because the surface looked to thin to withstand the force of the foil-plate.

The Propulsion Unit

My APS 63100 140kV was a great choice I think, just had to make 4 modifications:

  • Cut the overhanging shaft
  • Coating the inside with epoxy
  • Drilling three M4-threads in the back as a prop mount
  • Replace the standart bearings with stainless steel ones

The Motor is mounted with a 3d printed clamp to the mast, directly above the RL-Kite-Foil-Wing. The mast contains 10AWG-Motorcables and a pipe for the water cooling system. It’s powered by a Flier 320A ESC and fused with a 200A circuit breaker. I only use 3d-printed props and started with scaled (factor 0,78) version of this one from the Forum.

The Battery

Since my Setup was planned for a 12S Lipo-Battery, I started using two Multistar 6S 16Ah which worked pretty great for those little fuckers. Next I bought two (faulty) Turnigy 6S 20Ah Lipos with less (!) capacity then their smaller friends (around 14Ah). So I decided to build my own 6S10P 18650-battery packs with Samsung 30Q and a K-Weld spotwelder. Best. Idea. Ever. After watching a video of chinese teens manufacturing e-bike batteries I just needed about 3 hours per pack. At the same price compared to a Turnigy 6s 20Ah, my batteries have 50-100% more capacity and even more charging cycles with the correct handling. I spared the PCB on purpose to have more control over the cell voltage with my Hobbycharger.

Conclusion

Riding “Renate” 1-4 times a week for the last two months there is no major thing that i would do different the text time. I tested out around eight different prop-versions and finally found the perfect one for me (for now).
These are my results @ 47 Volts:
16 km/h 21A/1kW
20 km/h 29A/1.4kW
25 km/h 40A/1.9kW
30 km/h 59A//2.7kW

Here are some impressions:








9 Likes

Great! This motor seems pretty good match. Seems 80100 is little overkill?
Which wing are you using?

I have no clue why i should use a bigger motor like the 80100. And btw my esc is throttled to 75% :wink:
A guy from Czechia developed the Wing espezially for eFoils, I ordered it via email. It’s the same one superlefax is using.

1 Like

You are so welcome honey bunny.
Thanks for sharing this great build! It shows that the 63100 is the ideal motor if you go along the outrunner path. It is the most cheap solution to fly above the water!

Well done my friend!

great built, congratulation !
do you have consumption numbers without prop in air and water to see how much “losses” you lose when going from 80 to 63 ?
(like 80100 direct cooling)

1 Like

And how much Watt do you need for foiling?

Hey V_S,
i need about 1kW @ 16km/h

Nice :hugs:

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Got my build ready now, charging batterys up, so tomorrow will be my maiden flight on my own board.
Lets see, how René’s foil works with the 80100

1 Like

This one
https://efoil.builders/t/carbon-wings-optimized-profile-for-e-foils-now-available

I’ll keep my fingers crossed for your maiden flight tomorrow! Try not to loose your prop :wink:

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Not yet, but i can check it out if you want. Just spinning the Motor full throttle without prop in air and in water? I have just a cheap V/Ameter with hall-sensor to measure the current

exactly, i’m loosing close to 900W just to spin the motor… i expect it to be less with the smaller diameter, but i’m curious how much :slight_smile:

Also i just realized how far back is your mast… i was thinking about that for my next board. Does it affect riding in any way?

Properly secured :joy:
And i got some different size / pitch in spare :pleading_face:

When everything works properly, i am sure, i’ll visit you guys in the north again.
Your lakes are much warmer

1 Like

What a great succes, the smaller motor is great. You run 140 kv at 12s. That is a high rpm full throttle. But I guess you never run this high rpm and a no load run onder water and in the air can give a wrong impression compared to the c80100 at 80v.

Right Mat ?

The c80100 modified 3d print prop is 5 pitch ? Scaled down to 0.78 maybe the pitch is also 3.9 I guess ?

actually i don’t run full throttle either not sure of the % though…
and following the my test, it seems like my 80kv is more like a 100kv

i could be wrong, but i think if you scale a propeller in all dimensions, the pitch doesn’t change :slight_smile:

Well, you are not completly wrong:
The angle of the propblades does not change, but the overall pitch itself changes by the scalefactor.

Pitch= tan(bladeangle) * 2 * Pi * r

So if you scale down, you change the radius --> pitch is changed equal to to change of radius

2 Likes

You’ll be surprised with RPM figures. I’ve run the flying rodeo motor at full throttle and get no cavitation. If I remember correctly it was somewhere near 5400rpm under load (motor is 130kv).

By any chance do you have log the max rpm with full throttle under load of the FR motor , I don’t think we are close to this value

55kph topspeed FR = 15,3m/s = 916m/min

With a pitch of 200mm you need at least 4600rpm (without slip).
5400rpm would mean 17% slip. Why not?