Propulsion System - Motors, Gears, etc


I think I will give it a try. Thank you for your thoughts! My goal is to seal the Motor permanently and keep the system as maintenance free as possible. I’ll keep you updated.


Thank you Mike for asking. Any idea why it’s not possible? So now we have to wait for
and see what the have to offer.

As for magnetic coupling I found this some time ago

@pacificmeister cool design with a belt! I was thinking about similar solution but I plan to bulid esurfbord more than a efoil because it has less problems to solve. Like this one


I found this site based in the UK.

I got a quote from them for the 45mm dia magnetic coupling. Listed below

DST45-8 Magnetic Coupling with encapsulated magnets

  • 8Nm; Construction (1.4571) & Samarium Colbalt
    Magnets (Sm2Co17) - Rated to 25 Bar: £394.20

This is only rated for 8Nm of torque however. The next size up 60mm dia is rated for 22Nm, it may be enough I’m not sure though as I haven’t done any testing myself yet.



Ok, I just read the 360KV version has a 10Y wiring. Already star configuration. So never mind.

But I found this one:
Ok, it is 80mm diameter, but then without gearbox.
Did anyone already tried it?


hi, im trying to decide on either the sss 420kv or the sss 360 kv, i bought the neugart ple 60 5:1 which has a higher max Nm than the ple 40(at 29-70 Nm). at 10s the output speed will be 2664 rpm
the sss 420kv would give 3108 rpm at 10s
thinking about a normal 10hp (open to ideas)outboard engine propeller, but maybe 2664 rpm is a little low on rpm, maybe to go to 12s would help, im not sure, my brain is heating up ;)… do you think the 36okv is the one to go for, k


@keith75 I haven’t tested the 360kv but I ordered one. Gut feeling: Go with the 360kv to reduce input RPM and if necessary use a slightly bigger prop, maybe 150-170mm. The bigger the prop the higher the load of course but both high input RPM and high load is bad. It’s about finding the right balance to make this thing last the longest. 10S or 12S both worked for me, I am now to 12S which reduces amps and heat - less a concern on the motor but on the ESC and battery side.


great* let us know how the testing goes
im starting to think maybe a 6 to 10 hp outboard propeller in a protective duct could be an option, although that thruster option is nice because it comes as a complete back end unit, just ordered the sss 360kv motor today, with the good advice from pacificmeister,
ill wait to hear how it goes for you before going down that way, good luck


Ill keep you posted. I having a custom 250KV and 360KV VeFoil Motor built now that has 45% more power than the SSS 360KV. Direct drive mini ducted prop could require more juice and so could the impeller system we are working on as well. Rather spend a little more and have enough power than be a little short, though the SSS should have just enough power, but it could overheat according to my numbers.

The nice thing about the 360KV is you can go direct drive with impeller for 16K RPM, 80mm 7-9k RPM using 250kv, or toss in the gear reduction of 3:1 or 4:1 and do what everyone is doing now with near same RPM depending on your power (6S -12S)


Pacificmeister. I have the motor and I got the Seaking 180A BEC speed controller thinking it could take more power.
I ordered the original battery that you used but see that you have bumped up to 20,000 mah
What do the symbols mean? I am an Architect not an electrical engineer but eager to learn.
Input 3-6S Lipo What does the S mean? Series? Lipo is the type of battery
BEC: 6V/5A

Wil this work and what is the fuse/ circuit breaker that I should use to keep it from frying?



Hi @Kiteman54, sorry but I think that ESC won’t be great. It only supports up to 6S = 6 lipo cells in series = 6*3.7 ~ 22V. You may want to go with 12S to reduce heat and improve overall efficiency. The BEC in the esc is nice, means that it has a power output for your receiver, the Seaking 130 doesn’t have that and you need to get an extra UBEC. See my parts list, also for the circuit breaker. Good luck!


Thank you @pacificmeister. I will look into the Seaking 130.

How many cells are you running with the bigger batteries?
Do you use the water cooling feature? I also see that the 3 phase output wires are 10AWG rated for 200 degree C.

Others have said that 8AWG can take the heat better. I really appreciate you putting all of this together.


3 months wait to order a Neugart PLE40 5-1 gear head directly from Neugart.
Has anybody had any luck sourcing one elsewhere?
It seems like these things are rarer then hens teeth.


I had more less the same idea as this! great concept and the pulleys could be changed for different speed tests.

only issue I came up with was the belt flexing and vibrating as it goes through the water


You can also do two meshing gears and no belt. Less drag too.


PM, What did you use to upsize the 8mm motor shaft to fit with the Parker gearbox?

Great site BTW!


I ordered a 4:1 and it shipped within a week. Here is the model number I ordered: PLE040-004-SSSA3AA-T w 8mm input shaft. I’m in the USA and ordered direct. FYI, their keyed output shaft is removable so it acts the same as a smooth shaft.


yeah I am thinking something along the meshed gear lines! as you said it works for skateboards so why not us.

It could even be possible to fit the meshed gears into a similar setup like what you have designed.

what does Don use? planetary gearbox or direct drive?


May wanna check this type of gear out… no friction, almost no heat, no maintence…


I took a 10mm shaft and reduced it to 9.5mm to fit the Parker and then used a 10mm-8mm coupler.


wow, its next generation stuff in the pipeline, how € much though, and slim a diameter would be good