Awesome result, must be a good feeling starting to fly easily!
I got my waterproof remote controller working nicely.
It is based on a Grayhill 67A IP67 Joystick, a Teensy 3.2 and an nRF24L01+ breakout from Sparkfun.
All the electronics are potted with Smooth-ON PMC 780 Urethane rubber. Will post the design files on Github.
I’ve had about 8 rides in the last week. So far so good and much nicer than an E-skate remote in a ziplock bag.
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I’ve added the design files and code for my waterproof remote controller setup here:
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Wow man you must be pretty happy with the result
Well done
Any ideas of the total build cost?
And if you ever want to build another I’d love to buy one
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Hi!
I will also use waterproof connectors to be able to easely remove the mast. Which connector did you use exactly? And how did you do with the 3 AWG10 cables going out of the ESC? Did you “assembled” them in one cable for the entry of the connector and then use one contact per cable, so each lead is one of the 3 cables? Those from Chogoriusa.com seems to be too small to do it… 
Thanks!
Nick I would buy one too. Even a kit form with the parts 3D printed to avoid buying the components from 5-10 different places and paying shipping on o rings, shaft seals, ceramic bearings…
I just want to motorize my old windsurfer with a Rotomax 80 or similar but this forum has been truly incredible for getting a working knowledge of these motors and some of the very unexpected design gremlins that only emerge after a few weeks or months.
Im really keen to get started,
There’s just too much information to digest
I don’t want to start with P minster V1
Because that’ll be improved greatly by the time I’m ready
I’m frustrated
Because every time I’m about to start another thread suggests improved performance.
I Guess that’s the whole idea of the forum
Build test improve
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I’ll try to give you a rough cost for this. In the long term I’ll update the BOM document in the repository with costs.
I suspect that if I or someone else tried to sell these, the margins we’d have to take to make it worth our time at low volume would make them unattractive.
approximate estimates in USD:
Assuming you contract 3D printed parts to a maker grade 3D printing service
Propulsion Unit:
Motor $200
Gearbox Used $150 / New $400
Machine parts / enclosure: $500 - machined in China / $900 machined North America
Bearings: $20
Seal: $10
Shaft coupler $60
Shaft $10
O-rings $10
3D printed nose cone: $150
3D printed propeller: $100
Misc Hardware: $25
Control box
10AWG Wire: $40
Cable glands: $15
Batteries: 16Ah 6S Multistar: 2X $200 / Tattu: 2X $350
SeaKing ESC: $160
Peristaltic Pump $30
Tubing: $10
Tube fitting $10
Secondary battery 3S 2200: $15
Waterproof Remote Control
3D printed Parts: $75
Joystick $75
Teensy 2X $20
3S 2200 Battery: $15
Sparkfun Battery charger $20
Sparkfun Radio: 2X $20
Waterproof button $30
Waterproof connector $30
5V reg: $10
Misc parts: $20
Add in shipping for everything…
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Many thanks beer wolf
Much appreciated
Where would you recommend I start
Please
Hey Nick,
The Pacific Meister build is probably the most well documented. If I was new without much mechanical / electrical experience, I would be trying to do his build.
Start acquiring parts: Motor, ESC, Gearbox, Battery
Start 3D printing parts!
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Hi Nick
P meister has indicated that the gear drives wear out after time and at $400 each that is wow recurring expense.
The Nugart is I think 5000 Rpm max and I misread it thinking it was 50 000 RPM which is ten times the limit
Reisenhauer Reisenauer Super Chief 6:1 Planetary gearbox round only
cant believe i just found that…but to me it MIGHT be simpler to lower the KV and bring down the prop size? but i know it is far more complex than that…as in way way more complex…
i just want a power surf board so I am not forced to put the motor in below water and can use an 80100 outrunner…with an 80 kv but honest i am semi retired and cant be doing expensive trial and error so i have been patiently waiting to see what doesnt work becuase so much of it i would have tried already and experienced the same costly failures…
Hi Waterfox
Beautiful build
Would you consider selling it?
Thanks
Peter
Hi
The gear you mention in the link is specified for max power of 3,000 W - I don’t thnk that would be enough for our application so it might fail early.
Hovav.
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You should consider the Motor Chief, not the Super Chief. And to be safe I would choose the 4P version with 4 instead of 3 planetary gears.
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Silvio is using super chief i believe. Check his thread about consumpiton. 2kW for start, 1.2-1.5kW for flying.
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Great list. People should indeed know about those costs before diving into the project. Lots of expensive stuff will have to be often renewed, meaning that this is quite an expensive hobby.
But why are your 3D printed parts so expensive ? Are you having it printed on special plastic ? Those prices should be divided by 2 ( plastic + man/hour ).
I am pretty sure that some kids here would love to make some pocket money providing those parts to those of you who would need it 
Thank you and Yes I saw that and was trying to trade breaking the input limit of 5 000 rpm with the Parker or drift towards the 3000 watt limit of the throughput so honestly I am was torn…Just’s numbers do sound exactly right though depending on weights and speed to launch/fly
Hey, I would consider selling a kit of parts to assemble the thruster, but remember all the files are available on the github if you want to make your own.
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