Pacificmeister Build Info and CAD Sources

2x Tattu 22000mAh 6S 25C Lipo Batteries in series

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Hi everybody,
Somebody could give me the characteristics of the threat of the sealmont ? I would like to build this in aluminium and this must be compatible with the duct. Thanks

Is 25C the strict minimum ? Or would something like 15C be enough ? The reason behind my question is that now graphene batteries at 8000mAh 6S 15C cost 68 euros… Meaning that 24000 mAh would cost 204 euros, that is less than half price compared to the Tattus. Considering that lipos batteries have to be thrown away 3 times quicker than graphene batteries… That would put Tattu’s price down by 6 times.

Graphene batteries have larger dimensions though, if I am not mistaking.

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How many amps are most people pulling? I’d imagine it would be a lot lower when you’re actually foiling. A lot of batteries have a peak discharge that is higher than the regular discharge which could be used to get foiling.

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On the graph bellow I have plotted the Amps vs Speed in Km/h curve
I have a takeoff speed of 17.5km/h, the most efficient speed of 20km/h and a top speed of 31.5 (I am 85kg and using a drysuit so about 90Kg)
Unfortunately, I have burned my EagleTree elogger heavy duty after a few run.

SpAmp

I am using the Hiorth v1 with an Alpinefoil Access v2 and a 900cm2 wing
My PLA prop is barely sanded so this can be improved
SSS56104 500 kV
ESC Alien 400A 3-16S Boat ESC HV
12s (2X TURNIGY GRAPHENE PROFESSIONAL 12000MAH 6S15C)


http://www.alpinefoil.com/kitefoil-windfoil-shop/ailes-foils/aile-windfoil-alpinefoil-ulw900.html

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So you are using those Turnigy 15c graphene batteries… Great ! What is your feedback about it ? It sounds like this is enough to push you out of the water …

Price is 135 Euros at HK. Meaning 270 Euros for 24000mAh at 6S

Yep, they works well. 12000mAh*15= 180Ah and I pull max 140Ah. If you use 4 you could have 280Ah in discharge rate, that’s my plan for my next build.
Just keep in mind that they inflate a little so you shouldn’t have them too tight in the box

@Just, thank you. I corrected it.

@Clarin : which charger are you using please, and how long does it take to fully charge those big mamas ?

1hr 50min @ 6A with SKYRC ULTIMATE DUO 400W 20A
I could charge them way faster, but I prefer to be safe

That is fast enough to me ! 1h50mn is only a French lunch time :wink:

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Hello
I’m looking for the tutorial to desin my own mat with 360 ​​Fusion on clamp, if someone remembers the location, thank you

it’s good i found on youtube

If I read this right, at 24 kph you are at ~70 amps. I’m about the same using the SSS 56104 360kv, Parker 4:1, 130mm x 215mm 3D printed prop that is sanded and painted, 14s battery, Alien 300A boat ESC.

Based on Pacificmeister’s data, the Flite Board website, and the Lift pictures, they are only using about 42 amps to go 24kph. I’m wondering if anyone has any idea why some of us are using 70% more current than others. I’m fine buying more batteries, but I want the most efficient system I can get! I doubt the Seaking ESC is that much more efficient.

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Yep that’s correct. The 70% difference on my case is the prop and the prop guard. Once my prop guard broke while riding and my top speed increased from 31 to 37km/h and I am sure that with a good aluminum/carbon prop I could have reached close to 50km/h. I guess that’s the difference?

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Hi,
Could you help me to choose the good position of the “black square” ? to have 5v on the receiver.

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I find with a voltmeter !!! so stupid.

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That’s what I was thinking. It’s the only thing that makes any sense. When I lose the prop guard, I get about 20% higher speeds as well. And other than light sanding and a single coat of light paint, I haven’t attempted to polish my FDM props. I sent much of today sanding, laquering, sanding, laquering, etc the prop blades of a prop I just tested which at full throttle was around 130 amps. They are as smooth as I’m willing to make them. Will be testing soon again to see how much difference it made.

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Hey, did anyone else buy the aluminum pipe off of Amazon? I measured it with calipers and discovered it was a little over 1mm out of round. I expect this will cause trouble with achieving good thermal contact with the motor/gearbox and pipe. Did I get a bad piece or did anyone else find bad dimensions? Maybe I need to find another source…

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014GXMJAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I noticed that some are not 100% round but 1mm sounds like a lot. I sent one back once that was too banged up, I noticed that quality varies. There is certainly a small air gap if you use the SSS 56xxx motors, so use plenty of that messy thermal paste.

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