Thanks i already have a 2nd motor. Mine got deliverd damaged and fell onto the shaft while delivery. In result the screws at the backside were ripped out and broken. after some dispute i got 30% refund and orderd at flipsky again. They sent me replacment parts too and i could repair and sell it.
Br
Felix
The level of the builds here is incredibly high, if you just want to ride then it’s possible to cut some corners and do a finished build in 3wks:
You’d need a fair bit of studying here or some previous builds under your belt though.
Have you had good results with this manufacturing process ? I’m asking because this technique is IMHO the best one to make folding blades.
Yep work well. First one were not ztrong enough. All good with UD in the length
Maytech has their full combo with 100kv for 749$
Yes that is the way to go for future light and high speed efoils;-)
I have the Maytech 65162 120kv motor. I have printed a duct that was available for the flipsky motor but the bolt hole pattern is too small. Does any one have a Duct for Maytech motor? The hole pattern distance is approximately 62mm
Hi.
Wow! They changed the motor again!? I wonder why they do this? Hopefully it’s because they are using a better shaft seal. 
I haven’t seen a motor like this before. The duct created by @michion could probably be modified pretty easily to fit this new motor design. But, I suck at fusion 360! 
Here is a schematic of the motor. It has a ceramic seal. A cheap bearing inside will have to replaced. Haven’t tested it yet, I’m just starting my build. Hopefully someone can help and modify the duct to fit this motor style. 
Just fill the motor half way full with corrosionX and the cheap bearings will be fine. The ceramic seal is good! Just make sure to balance your prop if you 3D print one, or cut one down.
I’m sure someone will help you modify the duct.
Just watch 10 minutes of tinkercad how to in youtube and you str good to do basic stl files modifications
Yes, I have read your build notes and many of the posts you’ve made. One thing is very clear, corrosion X is a great product for our application. I bought three cans so far, it wasn’t cheap in europe but neither is replacing the esc or a motor that fails!!
I think the focus on corrosion x is not really correct. It’s not even in the top three in this test:
Surpassed by four other products in this test:
http://www.home-machine-shop.com/Rust-Off.htm
There are other options out there and some of them seem to work better, probably cheaper as well as corrosion x has quite a hefty price tag
Hi.
The use of corrosionX that I have come to make a name for myself by advocating is specifically for the use of submerging electronics. PCB boards, electric motors, things like that. It is also an excellent lubricant, and moisture displacement medium.
You could use mineral oil if you’re looking for something cheaper. Mineral oil will work, just lacks some of the corrosion properties.
And again. I’m not trying to sell anything. Just sharing my knowledge of what has worked well for me over the last two decades of playing with electronics in and around salt water.
Hey, just wondering how does corrosion X react to heat generated by coil heads and windings, let’s say 130°C. I am afraid it would become a thick paste when it cools vs mineral oil.
Depends on the mineral oil you use, some are more expensive than corrosion X 
It will be perfectly fine considering the boiling point is 216C…
Very good. Just looked at the specs but wanted to be sure. Even dielectric strength is really high.
I’ll trade my mineral oil for this product haha
Which VESC based ESC work with Maytech Motors ???
After smashing a sandbar and messing up my motor wires: Colorado winter build - ARC200 - flipsky 120kv - samsung 30q - #41 by brycej - Builds - FOIL.zone
I ran some new wires through the mast and was going to join them together
Anyone know if there is good solder point under the back cover? Or else I’m going to try and fit it all under my mast mount, although it might be a tight fit with the soldered connections.
