New Direct Drive Inrunner 65150

Anyway I don’t see an issue with lubed in bearings for our motors since it is quite obvious if anything is wrong with the bearing, like in my case.

Hi.

If the press fit is so loose you can press the bearings in by hand, then yes. It needs to be glued. Red thread locker works good for this. As does various gasket sealants like threebond, and the honda bond type.

If the bearing is tight enough you have to press it in, or hammer it in, it does not need to be glued. In this case I always lubricate it before pressing in. Lithium grease, or silicone grease works good in our low temp application.

Among other projects, I rebuilt a Ducati engine. Haven’t had a bearing spin on me yet. But, there are a million ways to do these things. I’m just sharing my first hand experience that I’ve had success with. If your not careful, you might have a really hard time getting the bearing out in he future with glue or corrosion issues.

:call_me_hand:

Ducati pictures. :sunglasses::beers:

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Hey!

Guys I’m new here and i need some help building my own eFoil with 0% experience. I need some help 3D printing the carbon fiber prop, rudder and also where can i buy a board online?
Also any help with MAYTECH, what setup do you guys recommend? something easy to work with and efficient.

Is this a project i can finish in 2-3 weeks?
thanks,
HAMAD

Hi,
there is plenty of information in this forum, please invest some time to read it. You can’t finish this project in 2-3 weeks, if you’re really fast you can maybe make it in 2-3 months. In my case its more than 2 years…

Thanks for the quick reply.
Ive been reading for two days now and most certainly got lost in all the technical terms and numbers hahaha. I just thought there is one setup that i could buy —> assemble —> and get in the water already!

Thanks anyways

To go fast, you have to focus on a efoil project with a bill of material.
This thread by @calikiter is quite representative of the effort. A single person building the hardware, with all the parts in hands, with the help and support of an engineering team doing it full time during 3 weeks.
The wrap up:

If you only have 2 to 3 weeks, you also have the commercial products. If you have 4600usd (3800usd + shipping) + tax, you could have a look at the CIMI efoil from China offering 1 yr warranty.
If you live in Europe, you can have a look at the European brands like Elevate or Takuma efoil in the 6000EUR with a 1 or 2 year warranty.
2019 was the test year. Next August (2020), we should see many brands offering a sub 5000usd gen2.0 efoil range (Waydoo from China, Takuma, …).
Elevate already offer ready made efoils or parts to be assembled. Next August, they should offer a state of the art drive train with integrated ESC for 2500€.

Yes we should see some interesting things coming up… :sweat_smile:

I run 11s with 100kv at 140mm 7 pitch prop. When the battery is low it is just able to get in foil.

Since I want to build an efoil for my friend at 13s I can give him my 100 kv and order a 120kv myself.

Why would someone order a 100kv since 120kv can always run less rpm by throttle. And not the other way around.

Also the flipsky motor is only 299 at bang good now. Model without the updates maybe?

I now run the motor with the flying rodeo prop. More speed and better efficiency. I can foil with 1000 watt now.

I want to ride more silent the flier esc is not really good at timing I think.

The cheaper vesc flipsky 200a I want to try. Is that plug and play? And should it be more silent? I was reading something about FOC mode.does that work for the flipsky motor?

I have this exact setup: FS 65161 + FR prop + FESC 200amp. Runs super smooth almost plug and play. You need to run the vesc wizzard (detection tool), should be straight forward. I run motor in FOC, it is silent

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Yes I see your videos. Also the latest. Sounds almost the same as with flier esc. The fr prop makes more noise because it is faster so at lower speed the motor is running less rpm. And at lower rpm my motor makes much more noise.

The 200a esc.with watercooling. Can you run full speed for longer periods of time without overheating the esc? My 500a esc is getting close to 55 celcius without water cooling.

At the moment I ride most of the time with 95% duty cycle. I have around 60motor amps. However, the esc is water cooled all the time

Just wondering, is anybody using the 190kv version of this motor?

Cheers

I think virus bought one, but not sure if he ever used one. I have the perfect prop for one but I haven’t bothered buying one to try it on.

What prop would that be?
Cheerio

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110mm cleaver prop…

Did someone have a STL to go between the flipsky motor and flying rodeo prop, I’m sure I saw one around here but can’t see it now.

@Jezza Did you run your ARC200 in torque mode or speed mode? Hopefully going to finally give my foil a test this weekend!

@Ackermann did use one.
I have one too but the adapter is smaller because I using a duct too…

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Thanks! I ended up finding this one with a duct that is currently printing: Fr 2019 motor system

Same with my setup. Also got the flier esc