My thin pod build (45mm)


#125

I have some questions:

  • How are you stopping the motor from unscrewing from the gear (I’m guessing you used loctite?)
  • How are you stopping the motor being pushed through the pod. Have you placed it so that it is right up against the rear mast mount?

#126

I think my ESC is burned but I am not sure. When I first try my setup with the duct, all went right but after 1/4h my motor stopped working. When I opened it I didn’t see any trace of burn, the ESC seems working (it beeps correctly) but it don’t output any power.

Perhaps my ESC cooling was not enough: a simple alu box confined inside the batteries compartment. Next time I will do so that heat can escape outside directly (an alu plate below the board for example)…


#127

I didn’t use loctite between the motor and the gearbox. Both are blocked (in terms of rotation and translation) by respectively what I called the MastClampBack and the SealMount, both screwed to the alu tube.


#128

From what I can see with the parts, The seal mount will stop the gearbox rotation. However the motor will be able to unscrew from the gearbox as there is nothing stopping it from rotating inside the tube.
The rear mast clamp doesn’t connect to the motor in any way.


#129

Yes indeed only the wires coming out of the motor stop its rotation, but that enough in reality because the sense of the rotational torque, in contrary to the propeller, tends to screw the motor on the gearbox, not to unscrew it.


#130

Have you threadlocked the propshaft in then to prevent it coming off?


#131

Yes I used loctite and a thin nut to assemble the propshaft into the gearbox shaft.:

image


#132

Ah thanks, that makes more sense. At first I was looking at it thinking eventually something is going to spin free :slight_smile:


#133

This is my solution to prevent spinning from the motor:


#134

Looks good. Could you explain abit please? I.e what are the two cap screws by the end of the motor for?


#135

The cap screws are there so that the motor is not able to rotate. When everything is packed together the screwheads will slightly stick trough the holes of the back of the motor to prevent rotation.

After I soldered the wires I turned everything up and poored epoxy in it, to make the wire connection water tight and give additional strength to the screws as well.


#136

do you think the motor will spin or the motor/gearbox will spin ?

yes the motor can unscrew form the gearbox when using a left rotation propeller (almost none out there except FR propeller) with “active free wheeling” activated on the esc


#137

It’s the one design flaw I found with the gearbox. If you use a RH prop, then you have potential for the prop toy unscrew. With a LH prop, the motor can unscrew. They should have reversed the thread on the shaft so that both tightened.


#138

Hi
Can you please share the stl file of the duct
Thanks


#139

Hi, you can download latest version of my files (including the duct) here : https://files.fm/u/eba3beb3


#140

Do you have them as .step files as well?


#141

Sorry, I’ve used OpenScad to make them, I don’t think conversion to .step is possible.


#142

#143

Hello, Silvio!
Firstly - thanks for your great job!
But, could you tell please, if your motor is Water Cooled Turnigy AquaStar 4084-620KV with water cooler block disconnected or is it basically air-cooled version?
All the searching results give this one and similar ones.


#144

Yes, the AquaStar motor always comes with a pre-installed water cooling jacket, but which can be rather easily removed.