Parts are arriving.
One of the problems I had with my last build was I don’t see that great without glasses. It makes judging how high you are above the water more difficult and its harder to find your way back to shore. So I bought these prescription Surf glasses. They seem very robust, With the strap tight, I can’t get them off my head. They do not float in fresh water. I have not tried salt water. I will probably add a little piece of yellow tape to the side to make them more visible.
Parts are arriving.
I’ve become a fan of Zenni optical - it’s online and dirt cheap. You can get prescription “sport” glasses for $35.
I went to that web site. Turns out there are options that would have met my needs. The prices are very good.
I told my wife about the site. Shes always buying glass’s. So it still might save me some money. Thanks.
This 150 Gallon Rubber Maid Tank, I got it at tractor supply for I think it was about $70. The shape works out perfect for running the foil. It also will be nice to jump in when summer gets here. Should remove the foil first.
I lost my mind. Probably bought 5 pairs of glasses and will likely buy more.
This set up lets me run the foil hard without getting cold and wet. I am about 1 or 2 weeks away from my first lake testing. Running with the old LiPo’s first.
I’m running a 80100 dry pod. My Flier ESC has several programmable parameters. I believe i have been using the zero default. Anyone know what the motor timing is and what I should set it to.
i recall 15° for this motor , but need to double check
I loaded up the parameters I had set last year. It was set at 3 degrees. I changed it to 15 degrees. I forgot that last year I had reduced the power to 75%, So I changed that to 100%. I think I am going to reduce it after my first water test because it seems too powerful. Unfortunately since I changed 2 things I don’t know if the degree change did anything.
I have worked on several outboards and stern-drives. The water pumps have a soft rubber impeller that rubs against a stainless steel housing. It becomes a melted piece of rubber very quickly if you run them out of the water. In my application my water pump starts running when I plug in the batteries. I might be several minutes before I get in the water. I was wondering if I was risking damaging the pump. I disassembled the one I used last summer.
I found a very small amount of seaweed, a very small stick, and fleck of paint.
The motor has a off center bent shaft, which wobbles a disc (feels like silicone) that has 5 pistons built into it. Each piston displaces a small amount of water. Each piston has a small check valve.
Lots of people here use this pump. It appears that the pump could be run quite awhile dry without damage.
Ran it hard today in the test tank, I have 1 cell in one of my LiPos that always drains early. Hit over 110 AMPS at full throttle .Things are good.
I got the same pump as you and hooked it up with a small reed switch in between. Once the board is in the water (i’m still building) i will place the magnet to start the pumping. This system is working on my table, next step is to hook it up with all the electrics in the board
Could post details of the pump that everyone is using
Why don’t you switch on and off your water pump remotely so you can activate it only when you are in the water? I used to do it with this https://www.conrad.ch/fr/p/commutateur-master-c7486-1-pc-s-1435736.html and the second channel of my alien power remote, and now that I have the Maytech remote which has only one channel, I control my pump using this cheap system https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32858787597.html?productId=32858787597&productSubject=DC-12V-24V-2-CH-2CH-10A-RF-Wireless-Remote-Control-Switch-System-Waterproof-Transmitter-Receiver&spm=a2g0s.90423188.8.131.52aaf4c4dt6UXUn It works just perfect.
**Both of those products are nice, I will consider for future. I especially like the 2 channel remote.
I have had good luck with the reed switch/magnet for my safety lanyard.
For now, I am ready for some water testing. I am not changing anything more until I get some water testing done.
I hope to eventually get a smaller prop with shroud around it. Then I may eliminate the safety lanyard, and turn the reed switch into a ON/OFF switch for the board electronics including the pump.
Is there a way you can detect throttle position (or at least throttle >0?) My setup turns on the water pump when it detects nonzero throttle.
Also, I got a simple in-tank fuel strainer to keep the larger goop out of the pump and lines.
Me too, think i will order one to try
i’m at 20 degrees, with the monitor on, i’m not sure it makes a big difference though.
regarding starting your pump, you can also used a temperature switch and not worry about start/stop…
i’m using a W1209.
it’s cheap, does its job and gives you a temperature reading.