Ah yes that’s a good point, I will aim to modify the prop files to fit the shaft without any drilling anyway as I will be 3D printing it What material did you print in and have you considered fiberglassing the 3D printed prop?
Brilliant, definitely eased the nerves a bit there for me haha! I think I will get an E-Logger V4 to monitor temperatures, throttle and/ or rpm…
I used HobbyKing PLA and never snapped one. But I preferred the 7 1/4 x 5 boat prop for efficiency and performance. I never used the 3d printed ones that much and I can’t actually remember the differences between the two, I stopped using the 80100 a while ago now, I should’ve taken some notes
The 3D printed props were noticeably smoother though
What is the drawback of inrunner/ gearbox propulsion over the outrunner direct drive? Is it more expensive than the 80100 method? Less reliable? If the inrunner/ gearbox propulsion has more performance and ride time, why are people using the 80100 direct drive at all?!? thanks for your help!
I think the way to go is definitely direct drive. A lot of people had success waterproofing the 80100 outrunner so I’m guessing that’s why it is so popular. However, there are some waterproof inrunners on the market that don’t need a gearbox. They aren’t as proven as the 80100 setup yet and more expensive. Maytech is running is pretty decent sale right now with their efoil package… You might want to check that out!
I am considering not waterproofing the 80100 and running it in the aluminium tube along with 2 air pumps to inject cool air into the tube and remove warm air from the tube, respectively. I would rather not take the motor apart as I’m afraid of destroying it and losing the money… Is the waterproofing of the 80100 the main selling point/ reason people use it? If so, I may need to rethink my choice of motor. Thanks for your help!
I need to put together the dosh but I’m going for theWaterproof Flipsky 120kV Motor, Flipsky Vesc, ClearWater Foil (routed out cable channel & glassed) with 3d printed clamps & 12s12p Battery with Smart BMS and a old Windsurfer that I have lying about. Only thing I need to decide on finalyl is if the 710120 Motor is better bang for my buck but I’d need to increase the battery pack size so probably not and its untested
Agreed with @V_S the deal over at Maytech Deal can be done cheaper but it is convenient.
Lol you are right but I guess it’s a more turn key solution! Maybe the prop is already perfectly optimized for that motor! Who knows? but I doubt it!! Concerning your doubts about disassembling the motor and breaking something, you shouldn’t worry too much. I made a Google Doc from mat’s instructions to waterproof the motor and it is really straightforward. However, it can be hard to disassemble and reassemble the motor but with patience it is definitely doable. If you really don’t want to disassemble it, you can dip the whole thing in a bath of corrosionX and periodically do it again so it stays waterproof. This method requires more maintenance but you don’t need to modify the motor.
sorry i’m late to the party, but i’m not sure running an out runner in a tube is a good idea… thermal transfer won’t be good at all as you rely on air, you’ll need a crazy volume of air to get the heat out…
What material did you print in and have you considered fiberglassing the 3D printed prop?
thanks for your help!