Hi guys, after many hours reading through this great forum I just wanted to run my plans by everyone before I bite the bullet and order all the parts. I plan on ordering:
APS C80100 Outrunner 130kV 7000W
Flier 400A 16s Watercooled ESC
Two 6S LiPos
DIY 315 MHz remote (Based on Mats design)
Trial and error with some of the props posted on the forum, including Jakes found here: 80100 direct cooling - #123 by jakebarnhill1 - Builds - FOIL.zone
and the 7 1/4 x 5 propeller
I will also build my own board, mast and fins with marine grade wood and fiberglass.
I would like to integrate a screen on the board to display amps drawn, rpm, mAh remaining etc… I am an engineer by trade in my first year out of college so I will also integrate some of my own designs wrt/ watercooling the electronics compartments and share the results with everyone.
I am roughly 70kg and would like to reach 30 km/h comfortably on my board (potential for more later) without blowing any components, and I would be satisfied with 25-30 minute ride time minimum, anything over this would be a bonus! I think my ride style will be 70-100% throttle mostly, so my question is do you think my setup is appropriate for what I am looking for? If not, what components are letting me down?
My parts are based mostly on Mat and Jakes builds as I love the simplicity and speed. However, I would also like to extend huge gratitude towards everybody else on the forum, I have learned a lot of the past few weeks and look forward to contributing myself soon.
Welcome to the forum! I’m not an expert like Mat or Jake but since I also built a 80100, I figured I’ll give you my 10 cents. Your ideas are great! Since you want 25-30min, I’d suggest over 20ah of battery capacity especially if you want to ride fast most of the time. You mentioned wanting to make your own foil with wood and fiberglass and I think that’s great and it is something we haven’t seen on this forum (wooden foil). However, you won’t be able to run your wires through your mast as it won’t be hollow so that’s definitely something to think about when you will design your mast and mast clamp. For the screen, I think it is a great idea but I’d suggest to integrate it in the remote design as it will be a lot easier to see and analyze when you ride. I have a screen in my board and it’s pretty much useless as it is hard to see with the sunlight and not easy to look at while riding. Anyway that’s my 10 cents… Using Mat and Jake as guidelines is great bc you will have all the support you need on this forum once you start testing and figuring things out!
True but the hassle of swapping the bearings/bolts & screws and epoxying the motor? Between that and the labour hours would it not work out the same with a lot less hassle to go the Flipsky motor way? Just asking as I’m about to embark on a spending spree and don’t want to waste any of the $$$
In relation to the wooden mast, you are correct that the wires can’t go through the mast as its solid but I got in touch with Clear Water Foils who do foil & Mast kits in Timber, they have said that they can’t put a hole all the way up teh last but some people have bought their kits and milled out a channel for the cables to fit in. They then epoxy the cables in and seal the whole lot together in a fibreglass wrap or two. Haven’t tried myself but could be a cheap way of getting the wood solution to work as well saving on hydrofoil costs - but you wouldn’t be able to work with the wires after…things to weight up!?!
For my part, it took me about 1/2h for disassambling and Assambling the motor, maybe 10min swapping the bearings and about 1-2h total for epoxy. Including preparation and cleanup. (covering Stator & Bell with a brush takes 10min)
Thanks for the LiPo recommendation, I am currently on the hunt for some cheap 10ah 6s ones to run in series. I was slightly put off LiPos after reading the post about them but I am on a budget and have used them for years on my drone so hope they will be fine.
For the mast, I plan to drill out a tube for the wires to travel down, and I will look to integrate the screen into my remote Thanks for your help, really appreciate it!
I’m personally planning on mounting my phone on my remote control since I can connect it with my smart BMS which gives me all the data I need (amps drawn live, battery voltage, battery capacity, battery temp. Etc). So that might be an easier way to get the data you want while riding.
That’s a great idea, maybe I will add a smart BMS when I get my board working and can use my phone too!
Was also just wondering guys, with my weight being around 70kg and aiming to build a small board keeping the weight of the entire system as low as possible, should I go for the 80kV or 130kV when my aim is at least 30km/h and 25+ mins battery life? I will trial and error the props, but which motor will maximise my chance at achieving this speed? I chose 130kV as Jake achieved great speed with it, but just want to know your opinion too Thanks!
This was a big dilemma of mine when I was planning my build! Since I built a li-ion pack and configured it as 14s14p I went with the 80kv version and a high pitch prop. If you run on 12s lipos, then the 130kv might be a better option. But in the end, it should give you very similar results if both versions have an optimized prop.
Kv130 + 12S (50Ah) + my big board (210cm, 33kg, gong xl foil) and additional 85kg can go with 32kmph. With better prop and an M sized wing it could even reach 40kmph I think.
Your plan seems solid! Yep 130KV gave decent speed on 12 cell. The bad thing is that to go over 30kph requires a lot of power and realistically you won’t be holding 30kph for over 30 minutes unless you have a fairly large battery. With my 40ah 12S made out of Samsung 25R cells I could ride fast for 35 minutes. Cruising just over 50 mins. If you smooth the surfaces and have the prop well centred that will improve efficiency
Go for the 80kV. You can reach easy 30km/h. 35kmh consumes much more Power, maybe even 40 is possible, but i guess youll need 6kW.
But what for, If you can foil with 1500W?
Go for the 130kV. I wanna see, If it performs better
Thanks for confirmation Jake, and thanks for all the work you’ve shared! To centre the prop well, does this mean having a bearing as close to the end of the shaft/ close to the propeller as possible to keep it stable? Also assume it means keeping each propeller the same weight etc to remove vibrations during rotation… Can I also ask, did your Flier 400A 16S ESC last long? My biggest concern is reliability and I was also considering an ESC/ VESC with amp limiting to prevent blowing anything on the board, eliminating the potential for wasting a lot of money easily…
Having it close to the bearing would help I guess. But most important is to drill the hole out straight (when increasing it from 10 to 12mm), preferably with a drill press, so the prop spins uniformly on its axis. On one prop I didn’t drill it out straight and it had really bad vibration. Vibrations kill the fun. And you’re bang on about keeping each blade the same weight. I actually never had vibration issues with 3d printed props, only the metal boat props that I just realised you aren’t going to use at this stage…
My Flier 400A ESC was the 22S version but it was/is great, I didn’t manage to kill it, I’m actually going to start using it with another build soon. So definitely no reliability issues there!
Don’t worry about not having a VESC, it will be harder to log data but will still ride just as well. And as long as it’s set up properly you don’t need to worry about cooking anything.
Thanks for your help, really appreciate it!
