hello @sunrise305 alas no I do not have a CNC or turn to machine but a friend on Nice city has his factory … about the tree I have not tested yet … we will see the first test … .
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I here is the link thingiverse for the mast clamp for efoil GONG ALLVATOR:
https://www.thingiverse.com/carvalhoemmanuel/designs
got the o-rings and am trying to trison the tight junction tube and mast clamp …
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Hello Manu,
From your opinion, on your STL, which o’ring size should fit the best please ?
Thank you
ID :50 TK : 3,5 mm (20 ch)
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I had actually thought, I’ll wait to receive the engine to cut the final length of the aluminum tube and I would see at this time if there is too much scope.
Ah…no engine in there yet. I ended up not cutting my tube at all so it could house wires long enough to completely slide the motor out the back. The front of my tube is permanently sealed.
what is the length of your tube? is it better that the propeller arrives at the level of the stabilizing wing or it does not matter?
My tube is 12 inches (304mm). Some have mounted the duct directly to their foil for added support as shown here. I wanted to keep the water flow in that area clean (less prop wash) so raised mine a bit. And in terms of the prop being directly above the rear foil or in front of it, there are many examples on this site of both. Not sure if either makes a difference.
Thank you, Pacific Meister advise me to place the lowest possible and a tube as short as possible …
here I am faced with a dilemma … 
This duct in the photo is not connected to the foil. The thing at the base of the duct is my water pickup for the ESC cooling, and not a fixing to the foil.
The mast clamp has plenty of strength and rigidity to support the significant weight in my motor/gearbox.
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it brings what to position the intake directly on the duct … I planned to place my water intake directly under the mast un the fuselage … is it good or not?
One decision that will help determine the length of your tube is whether you want to be able to disconnect the motor. Some have elected to permanently crimp the wires to the motor; thus the motor cannot detach. Crimping instead of solder means there are no soldered connections to melt and detach if there is high heat. And you can make your tube shorter since the motor is not sliding out of it. On my build I chose to make the motor wires long enough to pull the motor all the way out the rear of the tube so I can disconnect it (using the existing SSS motor connectors). This required a much longer tube to store the longer wires. Time will tell if my decision is a good one – or not. I do like being able to inspect or swap out the motor if necessary.
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Not good 
I thought I would get good pressure there, but it didnt work. Im going to use a pump instead.
Place the tube in the front section of the mast clamp. That’s how lift have done it and I have also had success with it like that. The only drawback is that after riding the ESC does not have some water flow to cool quickly.
On my build I only kick in the pump if the ESC goes above 40 degrees. But the natural flow seemed to keep it off anyway.
thank you for your advice, the fact of having to pierce the forehead mastclamp does it rosè it does not weaken the latter …? this is what I planned to do as an installation with a self-priming pump:
Pump KAOMER https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Kamoer-KLP05-6-Vacuum-pump-Water-and-Gas/32828251174.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.312.7f053c00u5XGiP
in red this is this piece:
http://www.racing-power-boat-rc.com/Rc-offshore/refroidissement-eau/raccord-durite-m-5mm-cuivre/
Yes and the bottom shape like this
http://www.racing-power-boat-rc.com/Rc-offshore/refroidissement-eau/prise-deau-simple-coque-offshore-rc-piece-modelisme/
More size here
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Nice ! Where did you purchase the magnet / switch please ? Any link ?
Thank you
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