Water “shoes” and suit , help for the knees the first time ( getting on and on the board a few time …)
Yes, the water shoes also. I have those from wind surfing. Did you also added the “grip” on the board itself (don’t know what it is called)?
Good tip, will try it out like that 
“Pad” i think
https://gongsupshop.com/epages/box1707.mobile/fr_FR/?ViewAction=View&ObjectID=669266&PageSize=5&Page=3
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Haha go for it Marc. I know the feeling so well. It can go wrong, or it is party time with a big smile at the water 
€ 8,47 6%OFF | Srfda 18003205mm Surfboard deck pad daimond line FR EVA Dek grip heeft lijm sup dek pad in surfen Skiën sport
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/1NzRcqi8x
I use this
Thanks Louis. It is exciting!
I tested the board in the water for the first time.
It is really water proof so far, I am mostly happy about that. I made a few test runs laying on the board, so cool!! But I kicked of the deadmans switch which fell in the water and disappeared haha. So 5 minutes and that was it for now. But it is working 
I will be back soon
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Well these were some expensive weeks and hard learned lessons.
Burned my Seaking ESC because one of the phase wires got detached in the motor pod. I thought to be smart and use the existing connectors. But no, bad idea! Ordered a Flier 320 and got that 1,5 week ago. Build up the pod, soldered the phase wires this time, and pulled the wires into the E-box last week and was ready for a new try last Friday.
Got into the water and did literally 1 run before I lost power. Motor still worked, it seemed. Back on land I touched the pod and it was very very hot.
Once in the garage I had no reaction of the engine at all so decided, without further ado, to cut the alu pipe. I found my whole phase cabling in a big spagetti. What the heck. Well, I forgot to use the grubscrews in the sealmount/alu pipe to avoid rotation of the engine in the pod!!! That’s what you get when you are too enthusiastic to go into the water I guess… I checked my checklist and noticed it wasn’t there. I guess last time I added it in the moment but forgot it this time 
So ordered a now motor as well and expanded my checklist. 3d printer is making over hours again, to the delight of my girlfriend.
Good thing is that everything else, also the engine pod, was still dry.
Also the prop seems crazy powerful, Its lifting me with the slightest movement of the trigger. Will try with a different prop next time.
Hope to be back in the water in 2 weeks.
Hi Mark, thanks for sharing your experiences… the good and the bad
Where do you ride in Holland? I’ve started my build this month, planning to fly end of this summer near Leiden/Alphen.
I read a lot about a forklift relay to cut the power to the esc if you fall. But I’m not sure if this is a good idea? In my swordfish manual they say you can’t cut the power when the motor is running. I think it is better to only cut the receivers power? Also you don’t need a big relay for this. What do you guys think?
Here also from Holland, Drenthe. With my build I also planned a full cut off power. To be sure everything is off. I think it is more safe. And you wont cut off under load. The remote control goes to 0 % throttle. But just in case something goes wrong I want to be sure I will loose all battery power. With a magnet switch to a board leash and a 200a relay inside.
Ha it happens he 
I foil in Rotterdam, as far as you can call it foiling yet
Would be great if you can make it still this summer. With all the dutch foilers around we should be able to make a camp out of it
I actually have one laying at home, however it requires quite a bit more than just this relay as you have to design an anti spark system as well. In my case it I don not think it would have helped as hte short came from the engine side. I believe adding a fuse is futile because if you blow one you have only 2 of the 3 phase wires in operation thus shorting the ESC
I think that running the deadmans switch between the signal wire should be fine. So far (with limited running time onlY) this worked fine for me.
But if you like to try a forklft relay let me know, you could take over my unit
HI Louis, what kind of system did you design? And did you use a anti-spark system?
TIme for an updated. I have been flying for a while now. Board, electrics, motor pod, remote, all is working well and stays dry. Total of about 8 running hours.
THe lipo’s have been ditched. The first 2 actual rides, after some test sessions, went fine, getting a little warm perhaps. But the 3rd run with them it became dangerous, they became crazy hot and swelled so much it almost opened the hatch, so I got rid of them.
I purchased some Samsung Q30 cells, nickel (thanks @Buildshit_gijs for a last minute nickel deal) and a spotwelded from Malecrics. This machine is working great, got some nice welds.
I went for 2 6S14P units without BMS. I charge/balance them with my dual 7s charger, hence the dual pack setup. I kept the 100A fuse in the system between the ESC and the packs.
I have tested quite a few different props, modified units from this forum and a own design.
Unfortunately my amp meter is difficult to read during flying but the most optimal prop gets me flying at around 50Amps. Max speed so far is 32 Kph, but this is not yet full throttle. I get about 12 km out of a charge, and I stop at 3.3v.
Its truly fantastic 
I try to go once per week.
I am starting to get the hang of it and able to make longer stretches without landing, turning a bit too. Loving it
Only remotely useful video
Would like to share some experiences or moments which I learned a lot from:
-Don’t try to keep your ebox as small as possible in your first design/build. I switched to bigger components suchbatteries or ESC. These still fit since I build a bigger compartment, allowing for things to grow. Of course you could say that they should have been bigger in the first place, but hey what did I know 
-THe 3d printed hatch frame works totally fine in combination with plywood hatch. Just keep the seal greased up and don’t save to much on screws. Takes some time but it is simple and with the cordless drill it works well.
-Don’t forget to lock your motor in the pod against rotation (for those of us still going strong with inrunners), expensive lesson for me to forget this.
-I redesigned the original PM sealmount to accommodate a larger clamp coupler, together with lots of grease and 2 bearings I have zero issues with a leaking pod. The collar is also lengthened to allow for grub screws into the alu pipe.
Below some of my designs or existing designs modified by me (PM sealmount), in solidworks
Hatch frame (see above for details)
Fuselage holder (without drilling, for liquid force fuselage, but can be adjust in the file)
3blade prop (dia: 160mm / Pitch: 220mm) I run max 3400 RPM. flying at about 50amp (about 95kg all in weight) Its a bit rough but works fine so far. 4blade prop is also available not not tested so much.
Revised sealmount (see above for details)
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Nice, What is the total weight off Your board ?
Thanks. About 25 kg in total.
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Lekker bezig Marc! Looking forward to your experience with my little cambodian longtail prop😁
Looks quite speedy in the video! I think my big Chinese foil is a lot slower
Hi,
What do you mean about locking the motor against rotation ? I tought it was already locked by tightening the motor to the gearbox ?
Also how would you lock it ? With epoxy ?
I’m still in the building status…
You are right, the motor is connected to the gearbox. Let me explain, in the pacific meister design the motor and gear box are secured to the “sealmount”. This is the sand colored object in the picture. What happens is that you slide the aluminum pipe (grey in the picture) over the e-motor, gearbox and collar of the sealmount. THe pipe is epoxied to the mast mount, so this is totally fixed. However both the sealmount and the alum pipe are cylindrical, and apart from the friction of the 2 o-rings (which fit in the slots in the collar) there is no physical securing of the sealmount (plus prop, duct, motor and gearbox) to the pipe. This is where it went wrong for me. The impuls of rotating the prop turned the whole unit, resulting in the 3 phase wire being entangled and basically exploding resulting in a great short. It destroyed the ESC (flier 320) and motor.
What i did is I drilled 3 tiny hole in the alu pipe and sealmount (between last O-ring and the thicker section of the seal mount) where I screwed in 3 grub screw. These were then covered in Bostik 009 glue kit. so far this is working fine.
Hope this helps
3 Likes
Thanks Thijs. Hopeing to test it during the first window of good weather
Next time/season we can do a meetup in Holland and see
I got you, thanks for your detailed post
My build too have the screws just before the orings to prevent the combo motor / gearbox to rotate :
