Flying Nemo from North Queensland Australia


Bought one of these after hitting my ribs quite heavily on the rail if my board the other day. I didn’t break a rib, but i’m quite sore . Better be safe than sorry from now on. I think the same wack on my head could have knocked me out


Session number 5. My confidence is building each time that I take it out. This is at about half throttle. Speed will come as I improve.


Roger looking good ,well done !


Cheers Alex, how’s yours coming along?


All is progressing well; I finished all the underwater stuff some time ago. I have been doing a lot of reading regarding Safety cut-outs, ESC’s, cooling, & Batteries. Not sure when I will be in the water but I am very keen.


Thats great Alex. I look forward to seeing the finished product.


@rogjalon Were you riding your eFoil in Mollymook a couple days ago?


No Jake, it wasn’t me. I’ve been riding mine at Lake Tinaroo in north Queensland


Be careful if you’re using this 12V UBEC. Mine shorted out a couple of days ago. It pays to have it fused.


I didn’t think this would happen to me, as I have always had adequate water cooling and have never found my ESC hot. But here it is my burnt Seaking. This was my first ride after replacing the UBEC above a couple of weeks ago. I’m guessing now, that the two problems are related.
It worked perfectly out of the water, but failed instantly under load.
My biggest issue now is not knowing if my motor has been damaged too. Does anybody know if it’s possible to test a inrunner via the 3 motor cables with a multimeter?


Burning esc:s suck. It could be that the fault in the Ubec damaged something in the esc which inturn made it fry.

Do you use connectors between motor and esc or did you solder the wires?

I have burned two yep’s but the motor never failed.




Hi Rikard
My motor wires have connector’s but I also soldered them together to stop them from coming apart. My top wires are XT150 connector’s. Hopefully you’re right and my motor is ok. Now I have the job of choosing a new ESC. I think I’ll go for something that can handle more amps than the Seaking.


The multimeter for microohm measurements might be much more expensive than 10 new motors, so it might not be worth it.
If you have to open and resolder the motor anyway you can separate the strands of the phases and check them for shorts to the stator and each other, but that only works if you open up the drilled strands of the phases since it is in Star winding at the moment, so all phases are connected to each other.

Well, that way you will burn stuff over and over, because the weakest part will always start overheating and burning (except you manage to have such an over dimensionized setup…but that wont be efficient…).
Get something with safety features, like phase current limiting: any progammable EV ESC, VESC, Nucular ESC, ARC…there is an endless list of controllers with current limit.
That way nothing ever gets in the range of burning…



My tip is, minimize the amount of connectors and as you stated regarding the ubec, use fuses were possible.

Both my yep’s were cool when burning. My guess it that a voltage spike caused by a faulty connector started the process and this can happens to and “simple” esc. The Hioth brothers have been using seaking for a long period now and I think it’s a cheap and simple solution.

With that said it’s always fun to try something new :slight_smile:


Thanks @Riwi and @Giga They’re good tips.


the way i checked motor: just by smelling it, you will know when windings are out… in my case , one motor burned and esc ok , one esc burned and motor ok


Thanks Alexandre that’s a good tip too, but I was hoping to avoid opening the motor pod


From my experience, the motor is fine unless it is stiff to turn, which would indicate some coils are shorted, i haven’t burned an efoil motor from an ESC problem, and Ive burnt 5 YEP ESC’s.

You should try a Flier 400A. I have been using one for a long time with my 80100. I’ve had a phase wire melt and disconnect while riding, and it didn’t damage the ESC. Ive overcropped the motor and had the ESC run extremely hot, with no damage. Seems pretty bulletproof.


I got smoke coming out of my double lipseals when I fried the 56100 :slight_smile:


Thanks Jake,
is that the 16S version you have? I was looking at the 22S but can’t see any benefit when I’m only running 12S. I see many others recommending the flier as well. Did you find it easy connecting the dual cables? And does the throttle curve function work well? Sorry for so many questions.
I feel for you having burnt so many esc’s, burning one is bad enough.