So I burnt out my SeaKing 130 finally. Time for an upgrade! All my battery packs are 12S around 180a. What’s a good ESC recommendation!?
Freefly ARC200. Really great configuration options. Castle Creations 160HV.
Why did the seaking burn out?
I have a Castle Phoenix Edge HV 160 on backorder. I’ll check out the Freefly.
Not sure what happened with the SeaKing but I definitely blew out some mosfets!
One more vote for the edge 160HV
Yeah I got one after asking you. But it’s been on back order for a few weeks with no reply from Castle!
What’s the best ESC at logging data? Anyone know of one that works with my Mac or iOS? lol
Many of us are using the Flier 300A waterproof ESC which works very well, has water-cooling, programmable, and has been running without issue for me. I started with a VESC, it fried, SeaKing 130 worked for very short rides but always overheated even with water-cooling and would force shutdown until cool. The Flier while many may say flier sucks, I have never had an issue and I did a lot of testing and crazy foiling at high currents 150-200A and it still working in my first prototype.
Same to me! My Flier works great.
Tested many flier esc, the first one a 120amp burned after connecting the battery with no apparent reason I never used it…
The second a 180a was used for 3hours then did stopped working properly (could spin the motor without load only) even if it was always cooled properly.
And the third one a 300a burned totally (explosion) whereas the bottom was directly in the water and used for 30min at 100 amp, the last one burned because the cooling Fet doesn’t transmit the heat efficiently. Wrong design? Bad thermal paste?
Regarding vesc as the 6 has heat limit it seems really difficult to burn… better spending 300$ in a good esc than buying 3 150$ Flier esc…
I’ve had good results with the flier 320A 3-16s. I just brought another for a new project.
When I first got my efoil in the water my water cooling wasn’t working so the Esc would get too hot and shut-down. It has thermal protection so I’m not sure how people kill them. Maybe this wasn’t working properly on theirs.
In fairness Chinese products usually don’t meet there specifications so I wouldn’t use anything rated below 300A.
MGM compro x-series 250 amps continuous.
A little more expensive but you get what you pay for. Great data logging and super reliable. Overbuilt.
+1 for flyer, i use [400A Boat ESC 16S LiPo 68V Opto]
but it doesn’t log, and you need windows to program it…
elogger for the logging part… not sure how long it will last though…
I blew a Flier 200 and still not sure why… But I’ve many thoughts about “hi amps at slow throttle”. Normal ride for me is about 30-40A at half throttle or less, 80+ at full speed which is too fast to stand foil… I’m afraid that all our fry problems comes from propeller and partial load pwm switching.
How would you rate the programming software? I tried to download it before buying the same Flier as you have. But my (over cautious) virus protection went bananas sp I did not install it.
it was not very straightforward to install, but after 30 minutes it was working ok… and its working fine since then.
most of the options are straightforward, more on the simplified side of things…
Ha! Good to know! I have a Mac so I use Virtualbox to run a Windows VM so if it gives issue I’ll just nuke the VM afterward.
on work we have these things for our new sample motors. I know thats a lot of money but they are very very good. We are runnig them on 200A with our motors without any problems.
The best thing about the sls is that is has an automatic derating depending on temperature.
So it wont shut down your board it will only reduce the current.
What sample motors are you running?
I am a designer for motor components for automotiv. Mostly steering systems and electronic climate compressors.
Hi, the price is really premium. Might be overkill for the usage