DIY Waterproof remote

Cyberfoil, did you simply replace the vr by the hall sensor??

By vr I suppose you mean the potentiometer used for throttle lever? And yes. I did just replace it.

I did not know it is that easy could you give the partnumber of the hall sensor and show how you connected it?

This is the one I used: 5x Hall Effect Sensor Linear Ratiometric 49E SS49E Electric Bike Throttle Repair | eBay

See pic no2 above and you see how it is connected.

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I don’t know if I am alone but even with the picts above, I have problems to figure out how these small electronic components interact with the gear position of the trigger. Could you detail a bit ? Thanks :slightly_smiling_face:

Threaded Inserts in 3D Prints - How strong are they ?
Interesting comparative study by CNC Kitchen YT channel.
Many other interesting videos on this channel btw.

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Might have just found some serious gold here! Appears to be the lift controller

Although I’m guessing there would have to be some modifications made in order to make it compatible with our DIY setups. Doesn’t appear to have a transmitter

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Very interesting! I think you meant it doesn’t appear to have a Rx. The TX will be built into the remote.

Haha yeah my bad! Tried typing this out as fast as possible while multitasking at work!

I see they also have the spare battery at an exorbitant amount of $3500!

You can get them direct from lift …

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The price of the remote is a steal in comparison to the rest of the prices. The best is the data cable and fireproof case.

I seen that! Crazy.

To me, although $200 is expensive for what it is, I would happily pay it just for the casing :see_no_evil:

Just ordered one! Will share pictures as s soon as I receive it

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For me, like a mobile phone, the link is bidirectional, that is board AND remote can transmit AND receive. So we have an uplink (board to remote) and a downlink (remote to board) traffic.
Whereas the remote transmits the essential information (trigger position or governor level (pwm=speed), radio beacon to let the board decide when motor should be switched off = remote to board distance is too far),
the board is also an important transmitter as it transmits:
1- board battery level to display on the remote
2- different warnings: battery/motor heat excess, board battery level under x% capacity, reduced motor power, tbd …
3- advisories: “please go back to starting point” (?)

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300usd with shipping and taxes for a Maytech versus 200usd + something for the LIFT
This could be an excellent investment with a bit of work :wink:. Looking forward to that moment.

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Here is the tear down of lift remote:
there is a chip nf52832 based certified ble module which comes with built in RF amplifier to boost the radio up to 20 db which I argue if it is nececcary with proper desing and external antenna in the housing rather PCB antenna, and that is it guys no further magic in the electronics!
there is a E paper very slow refresh rate display .
you could not desing the hardware cheaper than this very poor design
The housing design, tons of dead spaces and unnecessary bulky corners which makes the display to look even smaller than what it is.
Liked the trigger approach so no wiring from outside to waterproof section
Uses 2 AA battery which makes it even easier to go for certification and regulatory stuff
long story short, seems the design has been rushed and purposely made cheap as much as it is possible. For around $12k price tag I would except more for the remote part of it






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Does it feel good in the hand when you use it?
Is there a microcontroller under the screen on the other side of the PCB?
Are you saying you would have designed it with an external antenna?

Let me present some counter logic:

  • The BT832X board is a long range (1000m in open air) bluetooth 5 module that no external antenna. It also seems to have better penetration than most other modules. It sells for around £15 in the UK.
  • No external antenna means fast and simple assembly with less to go wrong during the assembly stage in the factory. It also means there is nothing to come loose if the remote takes many knocks.
  • The E-ink display is another very clever idea. It is guaranteed to be seen in all light conditions. It is black and white which eliminates any issue where someone may have colour blindness. It is also A LOT more expensive to use a display like this vs a small OLED screen. The smallest E-Ink display on Banggood goes for around $13 whereas the OLED screen Maytech uses sells for around $6.
  • While there may be dead-space in the remote housing, I don’t really see what else you would want to fill it with or why you would need it to be smaller? All the users seem to say its comfortable and easy to use. It floats and a larger remote is easier to see if it is dropped in the water, making it less likely to lose.
  • The AA batteries don’t only mean that certification and regulatory stuff is easier, it ensures the remote can be very easily and cheaply shipped worldwide to anyone that may have broken the remote.
  • The remote is $200, not $12K. The extra $11800 pays for a lot of other things :wink:

All in, I see a well designed remote that is economically good for both company and user. This remote definitely costs more to manufacture than the Maytech remote, it is better and is then sold for cheaper. How can any of that be bad?

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Does it still read liftpatents.com on the bottom? Their first ones did but there is nothing on there.