DIY Waterproof remote


It is 2.4Ghz Pulse Width Modulation (PWM)


This is my remote. Waterproof with a condom. More info is in the Max Maker Build Thread.


This is Eytan Victor Levi we are on emails.


Following all everywhere we have to start riding millions of people…)


Hi @pacificmeister
Do you help me to configure my hk-GT2B , on Use Channel receiver,
St trim, th trim , and st d/r and st position (rev or nor)
Do you use ch3 Channel on throttle ?


I don’t think I had to configure anything on the GT2B. I use the trigger channel only, not sure what channel number that is. Just plug in and try them all. I configured the Seaking ESC to forward-only (no reverse) mode via the beep codes.


do you remote the red cable from the ESC connector to connect it to the receiver
if I leave it the engine and the esc heat up and the axis turns hard and makes noise and if I remove the cable I can not run the engine anymore. on your video the axis turns quickly and it does not have the area to heat


Channel 2. Leave al the dialer on GT2B on remote in neutral position (you use the upper one only, for the throttle). If you set “forward only” on the ESC the reverse switch is useless. Anyway, plug it and try. I don’t understand what you mean with “axis turn hard”?


@MaxMaker do you know the reason behind 31sec transmission and 31sec no? It’s a stupid error I made, using “int” to store the variable “time”, so when the millis counter reached 32000 it stopped! Calling the AutoAck as “false”, like you did, solved the transmission but the eliminated the “failed connection” feature, the Green or Yellow LED. No big deal but… I wanted it, badly!! Now I stored the time using “long” instead, and it work!!! Updated on Arduino web. I tried with the receiver with additional antenna module, it works even into that sealed aluminum box and (on land) still works fine at some meters of distance.

The mess now is to design a printable waterproof case, not too bulky but with room for all the electronics, battery, trigger, hall sensor and reed bulb. I filed a couple of failures, so far…


Thank you for finding that out!!! Super cool, I will correct it on mine. You can use my remote control if you like.


Hi mauro
Thank you for your Help. I try solution yesterday evening. I bad read notice , to synchronise throttle and esc . I use Channel 2 , remote trigger off and esc power on , Before remote trigger is on . Now it s ok :+1:


Hi @Alexander Thanks for all the great info! I’m studying it. This is a great solution.
I’m wondering why you added a 3.3V regulator to your cct? Isn’t there already a voltage regulator at 3.3V on the PRO Mini?

Have you tested your remote in the water?


I know the Nano has a 3.3V regulator but for good and steady NRF24 transceiving, you could use one of those $1 NRF24 power module… Caps (smd ceramics) and voltage regulator are there, you don’t need anything else.

Today I ordered the AD623 op-amplifier and a triac to get a readable signal out of the hall current sensor, I’m curious to see how the game change when you can get and use real time power (current) data to dial in a throttle ramp!


Power module like this.


Hello, been following the efoil builders forum for about a year now, im getting all my pieces together and loving all the projects i see going on.

Im in the process of building a remote, will be happy to share all the files.

This was an afternoon spent on fusion 360, it feels great in hand and plenty of room for electronics. Would be great to have some feedback or any suggestions.

I still need to work on where all the electronics go but shouldnt be too long.

My board is made of insulation foam, and 3d printing wing, mast l, remote etc. I am attempting to have a complete and fully functional setup for less than $1000. Will add more pics soon.


I am impressed, nice work!!!


Hey mate, I’m new to the audio no with the NRF24, would a step down voltage regulator like this
be sufficient to power the NRF24 instead of a cap and ceramic. Cheers


The cap doesn’t power the nrf24. It only helps.

I am powering everything from my 3v arduino pin without an issue.

The remote looks nice! I would make the head a bit bigger. I tried to keep mine as small as possible, but with all the wires it ended up jam packed. I realised that this is not something that I keep in my pocket, so it can be bigger.


Hey MaxMaker, big fan of your build, you actually inspired my build of an arduino and NRF24. I followed schematics I found online and assume the capacitor may be necessary when using a NRF24 with larger wifi antennae? Still a noob when it comes to electronics so the best I can do is ask. Its good to know your not having any trouble with it as is but I have these step-down voltage regulators and hope to use one, would they hold a more stable current (acting as a cap) to the NRF24 compared to no cap.


Very cool! Please share your progress.

If you have it, you might as well use it. I am not an electronics expert either. I just google and follow tutorials. Most of my NRF code is from MaB.

Some tips for electronics:

  • If it can go wrong, it will eventually. So make sure everything is insulated and fixed in place. Things can short out very easily.
  • get a multimeter with continuity check for debugging your circuits.
    *use flux on all solder joints
  • if you need one pcb, order 3, they are cheap and often needed for debugging. You can also break them easily.
  • install all chips in sockets. Don’t solder them on permanently, so they can be easily replaced.
  • get a dedicated data USB cable. Some generic cables only transfer power.

The Remote Video needs another 2 weeks probably. More tips there.


Hi, I guess it will work also with the step down, anyway capacitors are good as power buffer, when these NRF24 transmit and receive, the power request has a surge which could lead to voltage instability, it happens at high frequency. No big deal: try! If you experience frequent signal loss… you already know what to do next.

@MaxMaker, i will update the code because I swap the ramp on receiver side (in case of transmission problem should be safer, I thought). It’s a bit tricky to get some esc to engage, if so, it’s matter of sending min, max, idle command to the esc during Setup {}