Build from England - 80100 windsurf conversion

haha , so good to see it , it is for motor is right .

Great build. So now the front of the board is the original back end ?

No the front is still the front. The board’s original tipnand tail have been chopped of. I did this to achieve the most volume possible in the board body.

Google Photos

Progress has been a bit slow the last few weeks, however the electrics box now in, and I have the transparent hatch done. The underside is also ready to go. Once the last lot of epoxy cures I’ll try to get some more pictures.

Google Photos

Started wiring in the electrics too :smiley:

Google Photos

I have a hell of a lot of sanding to do (which may end up being a bit half jobbed, im not worried if its perfectly smooth!) Then some paint!

1 Like

Oh and the motor finally turned up! :laughing:

So I was able to test the remote reception this evening and the receiver is working ok inside the aluminium box, I assume the signal his passing through the plastic glands and rubber seal. I was even able to move to another room with a cavity wall still working no problem so fingers crossed it works the same on the water

1 Like

Great work but Just a word of advice for the future, epoxy will not bond properly to the pain on the board and you need to make sure you take the paint right back so you ar bonding directly to the fiberglass to get any real strength.

Ok, some more progress!

I spent an hours sanding the board with some liquid encouragement :+1:

And started painting with a epoxy paint, bottom and top side

Between coats a full wet sanding,

I have the second coat to put on the bottom, and then another wet sanding planned. I did think I might try to finish the board with the epoxy white, but drips are being too much of an issue, so I’ve got some epoxy white spray paint coming to do the final coat. before the hatch gets fitted.

Work also started on the motor.

FYI, I’m not using the original shaft so used this whilst gluing

The bell housing first, using the centrifugal method.

I ran off some 3d printed rings to go in front and behind the magnets. I measured then tweaked the scale to get a good fit.

No rings

With front Rings

With rear ring. I should have made the inner diameter a little less on this one as its going to need some finishing.

With the rings glued in, I set up an old Unimat lathe with some ‘Splash guards’…
Also did a test pour with a solvent cleaner to check for leaks and clean where the resin was going.

I went with a polyester resin for this because I could increase the cure time. I know epoxy would give better hold on metal, but with the shape of the housing and the magnets, I can’t see this coming out to easily
The lathe is pretty old and I wasn’t keen on running it for hours straight. Turns out this was a good call as it overheated and tripped out the electrics after just under an hour!

However the pour went ok, unfortunately the pot gelled on me before completely finishing so I had some slightly exposed magnets.

After fully cured, and the lathe cooled down, I gave it a good sanding then had another run. This time I got the perfect finish :stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

Just a little finishing to do removing the extra plastic from the larger ring and good to go. Pretty chuffed with the results, and the 3D print rings worked like a charm

The wingdings will be next, I’ve started a bit but waiting on some bullet connectors to solder on before going any further.

3 Likes

Following on from this I used a product from Sicomin - pretty amazing stuff


You can see it being tested here: https://youtu.be/2RFzH_NB148?t=329

Using the slow version almost no heat is produced and its a very slow, calm process letting it fill all cracks.
The only downside is it needs a post cure at 40°C for at least 6 hours. A bit of a bugger considering the size of the board!

I found a solution though, Using a few layers of water proof membrane to protect the board…

I cranked the heat on the hot tub to 40°C and left it overnight! :joy:

This worked amazingly well! The foam epoxy is rock solid now.

1 Like

@PowerGlider, is that the type of internal mirror surface requirement you had in mind when creating this thread (point 8) ?