Best electric Motor?

Hello everyone ! im new here and i need ur help for my project :smiley:
i would like to know which is the best motor for a longtime ride like minimun 1h with awsome power.
thank you.

When you select a Directdrive, I think it is the APS 63100. But you have some work with theme to make him waterproof.

i already got my SSS motor for my efoil but now im trying to make a surfjet :smiley: with two motor that why im asking the best one so for waterproof is not a problem. Do u know what ESC and batteries i can put on this APS 63100 ?

Here the link: https://alienpowersystem.com/shop/brushless-motors/63mm/aps-63100-outrunner-brushless-motor-140kv-4500w/

I think a 12s 12p give you more than one hour with enough power. Some German drivers have such good experience.

Esc, or Vesc with around 200a
Good is the Flipsky VESC

https://flipsky.net/collections/electronic-products/products/high-current-fsesc-200a-60v-base-on-vesc6

or ESC https://flipsky.net/collections/electronic-products/products/seal-300a-60v-esc-for-surfboard-e-foiler-board

I hope I finished my efoil in 1-2 mounth. I use a Flier Boat 400A ESC and an Flipsky 65161 motor.

omg nice ! and what is the difference between esc and vesc ? which one is best ?

read the threads in this forum :wink:

Yes thank you for all ur link u are awsome

12 S / 12 P with 18650 cells = 1 hour foiling = impossible :wink:

Actually it is.
I’m pulling 1200W when foiling at 22kph.
12S12P means 1555Wh with a 3000 mAh 18650 cell.
This gives you 75 minutes on the foil.

Last year was a meeting in Germany.
One guy build an efoil with an old cuttet Mistral.

He have an 63100 with an 12s10p battery configuration.
He used an RL foil.
He charged his cells to 4.1 V and discharges theme to 3.0 ( 3.2V when not driving )
When he drive without high speed , he can ride 45 minutes :wink:

That is, why I also plan a second configuration with that motor and a better foil than the Gong

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yes there are many factors that influence the driving time.

weight of the driver, which wing, which motor, which battery technology (how resilient the cells are, how much heat they produce) which propeller, how is the setup coordinated with the esc. timing etc. what water temperature, salt or fresh water, what driving speed, many waves, water currents, headwind, tailwind., how does the driver stand on the board / sideways or more straight, etc. ,. how many starts, how many curves, or straight ahead. everyone will correctly state their values at the time of travel I assume. but what i know 100% is that you can never use the calculated values of a battery to calculate the driving time. Because from a 3000 mAh cell you can never use the nominal capacity more than once … for example, real. 2700mah. the efficiency also drops when the voltage drops …

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You can complicate it if you want to, but ultimately some of those factors have so little influence you wouldn’t even notice them.

The biggest contributors are the drive unit (motor and prop) and the foil wing. With a good setup you can very easily get an hour with a 12S12P pack.

At this stage there are really 4 drive units to consider:

  • Flying Rodeo motor (best direct drive, but pricey)
  • 65161 (100kv or 120kv) by Maytech/Flipsky/Reacher with the threaded shaft (great drive with little maintenance at a decent price)
  • Geared drive (Faster acceleration etc but more maintenance)
  • 63100 outrunner (you will need to waterproof this yourself etc)

One of the biggest fails guys make is buying a cheap or inefficient wing (I did this the first time I bought too). If you get a good, efficient wing, then every component in your system has an easier time keeping you up on the foil and as a result has a better lifespan and more riding time. The cheaper heavier wings also make the setup and bit of a pain to carry!

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6384 forgotten

In addition, a battery is specified with 12s12p nonsense for the travel time if no capacity is mentioned …
14650 700mAh can also be connected to 12s12p.

There isn’t the best E drive anyway, but there are a lot of wrongly tuned ones …

In addition, I would be bothered by some expensive inrunner that they are only 100% waterproof when they are full and no water can fit in :joy:
Then prefer to drive directly wet engines and have a much easier and faster maintenance.

Gruss Frank