Anybody with a Neugart PLE?

Does anybody in the US/Canada have a Neugart PLE they are willing to sell? I have two distributers here in Colorado but for some reason they don’t seem interested in selling just one.

I thought I’d start my first build using the Pacificmeister STL files but the Neugart PLE might be a showstopper…

If nobody has a Neugart PLE, can anybody share their STL files and motor configuration so I can buy/build a known setup that works. Thanks for the help! -Marc

I have ple 60 1:8 can you use that? I can ship world wide

I might have a line on a PLE40 so the simple answer would be “No”. The longer answer is probably more helpful. If you want to be able to sell it, try to find an STL file where the PLE60 could be integrated into a design. (somebody has probably done it already) If you have both those it will get snapped up. The 8:1 ratio seems a bit high but I’m sure if it could be immediately integrated without a ton of work, it would still sell.

Why would you start a build with a gearbox when there’s a known working direct drive motor that makes the build MUCH simpler?

Well I thought since it was my first build I would follow Pacific’s build closely. Can you point me in the direction of a thread that would have the STL files and motor you are talking about? I’ve done a ton of reading and would prefer to not build a geared setup but it seemed like it was the only thing that was super straight forward. (minus acquiring the damn gearbox).

No point to build a geared setup in 2020, just too much hassle with waterproofing, coupler, shaft and thrust bearing. Forces to mast clamp are high due to the length. I built one, because there were no direct drive options when I started in 2018. There are two common solutions, either use a 65161direct drive inrunner that can be used with a duct or run a 63100 outrunner in the wet (you need to treat it with epoxy). Both solutions can be found in the forum.

Bangood is selling the flipsky 65161 120kv for a good price. Get that motor. It’s well tested and works very well. Online Shopping 65161 - Buy Popular 65161 - Banggood Mobile

OK…I’m switching my design and going with a more “2020” approach. I’m going to order the motor on Bangood. What about the prop they sell with it? Is it any worse than what I could print on a 3D printer? Also, what would you recommend when it comes to a (V)ESC? I’d like to use water cooling because I know how critical it is to keep electronics from overheating (I have a 150HP VFD), but at this point I really want to go with a tried and true setup. I’ll be using the Maytech remote.

I would go with the 75V 200A vesc and add water cooling to it. definitely the best option at this stage I think.

Prop wise the banggood prop is crap unless you modify it. I’d rather run a 3D printed prop than that one. You could also get a Flying rodeo prop and modify it a bit which is the best option (unless he does another run of props specifically for this motor). Just make sure you purchase the motor with the threaded shaft!

Would one get away with a Seaking HV 130a ESC paired with the Flipsky 65161?

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Unless you build a jet engine which is less efficient, it won’t work with direct drive. To achieve the most efficient RPM with a prop not too big (dia 130-170mm), you need to add a gear, 3:1 to 6:1, I suggesst 5:1. @12S you reach 48*500:5 RPM= 4800 RPM in idle and enough torque. I use a 420KV Motor and 5:1 gear. I would go for a direct drive, either 65151 120kv or 63100 outrunner 140kv run wet. Both are proven designs without the hassle of a gearbox and coupler, the pod will be shorter as well.

@Jezza I switched my motor to the flipsky 65161 120kv 12 mm with the threaded shaft. Do you have a prop/duct file that would fit this shaft? Thanks

I think I posted a 3d printed prop somewhere, but can’t remember where. I don’t ride with ducts so never bothered with designing one.

You could adapt @pacificmeister’s parametric prop/duct, it is available in Fusion360 format.

I just tried uploading and it says you can only attach certain file types. How are people attaching STL files?

If I can’t figure this out I’ll send the link to the threads where a lot of these files are.

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Thanks y’all. I appreciate your help.
@Jezza - I’ve seen a few of your prop stl files around the forum - it just looked like the hole in the files was for the smooth shaft rather than a threaded shaft
@sat_be - not a bad idea, i have printed that prop before i switched to the flipsky. Wouldn’t be too hard to change the diameter of the hole and add a thread.
@HighAltitude if you could do that i would really appreciate it!

I put them in my Dropbox. These are the 3 props that I have been using (all of which are not my creation). I think I need a bigger prop to optimize the setup for a 12P battery. These are still a bit small but will get the job done. You must use 95% infill or inject them with resin. If you don’t, the first time you use them in the water, the prop key will rip through the PLA. Let me know if this works.

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@HighAltitude Thanks Marc, I got them. I think I may be slightly behind you in my build, but it sounds like I’m following a similar plan. I have my mast clamps, prop, and hub printed. I have a gong M allvator kitefoil, and a Flipsky 65161 on order. I plan to run 8awg wires from motor to ESC, and then 10 awg wires from ESC to battery. I think I will go with the 75v/300 amp max VESC from Flipsky. My immediate problems to solve are figuring out whether to crimp or solder the wires, and what type of battery I want to run. Best of luck to you! Do you have a thread to follow your build on?

No build thread yet but the initial build is done. I’ve used it a few times but need to do something about the board. I’ve went through several “proof of concept” boards and need to do something permanent. I’ll probably buy a board from NoahsArk because fiberglass is not really something I’m interested in doing myself. Too much time and effort when I’d rather be on the water.

That’s a quick build for starting in July! I definitely have a few pieces of the build on the horizon that will present me some challenges - including the board and the electronic schematics. What kind of batteries/esc have you been using?