80100 modifications for a maintanance free setup

I’m done with my geared drive setup and now would like to build another Efoil and go the easy way :wink: It is also very interesting to compare both setups efficiency wise.

My goal: I want to modificate APS 80100 80kv motor to run it without any corrosionX and be as maintenance free as possible.

To my questions:

1)Is there a alternative/cheaper source than APS for the 80100 80kv motor (I’m in Germany)?
2)Do I need to change the shaft because of corrosion?
3)Can I use stainless steel bearings instead of ceramic bearings to prevent corrosion?
4)What bearings do I need exactly?
5)What is the best way to waterproof the solder connection of the motor cable and my phase wires?
6)Can someone post the stp files for the 3d printed materials between the magnet gaps?
7)Any other recommendable modifications I need to consider?

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Depends to a large extent on how it should also run in saltwater :surfing_man:
Most stainless steel bearings are A2 and not A4 and therefor they will rust in salt water.

I think it’s better to pour with epoxy resin to get a very smooth surface because it’s turning with 4000 rpm

image

  1. may be that one: China 80100 80kv
  2. i changed my shaft because of the length, and went for titanium at the same time.
  3. not using corrosion X doesn’t mean completely maintenance free… you’ll need to clean it anyway at least by flushing with water… and even after doing that, i get salt buildup appearing after a few days…
  4. bearing dimensions in this thread For who try/have tried direct drive with outrunner
  5. I used liquid tape on the end of the motor leads up to the bullet connector. Covered with adhesive lined shrink tubing on the connectors themselves. After connection, i just wrap a good electrical tape around. If you want a more permanent connection, using some more adhesive lined shrink tubing. I would keep the bullet connectors there in any case.
  6. agreed with @SUP-MIKE … that’s very smooth! was it a cast or did you let the epoxy harden while spinning the rotor? that’s not a 80-100, right?
  7. you might want to replace some of the original screws by stainless ones.

I use a core in the center and pour with epoxy - after hardening turned and ground in the lathe - teflon spray at the end - that was my way :sunglasses:

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Seen this … ? Found a good motor

Thanks for the answers. Is there also a bearing which can handle the axial force?

What do you think about this hybrid bearing?

Deep groove is the way to go, i’m not sure how ceramic balls compare stainless, better for corrosion, just not 100% sure of the load they can take. It should be fine as it’s holding in @alan_wong 's build with a similar motor.

Ceramic balls can take more load.

I’m thinking about buying a APS 63100 140KV 63100 kv140Outrunner with 4500W. Does anybody has already a working setup with this motor and a max. Speed?

The 80100 can run without the big bearing and the cross shape aluminum part. It will reduce some friction and simplify bearing sourcing. Just like the 8080 motor. It will also help to have some space for rising it with water.

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It actually cannot run without the big bearing at all from my experience. I’ve tried and the results are horrible. The motor vibrates like crazy without the big bearing. If I went for any more than a few seconds I think the motor would be damaged from the magnets colliding with the stator.

With stainless steel 316 bearings, and marine grease in the shaft cavity between the bearings, the bearings are pretty much maintenance free in fresh water, in salt water flushing out after a ride is necessary and re-greasing every couple hours doesn’t hurt. But I haven’t replaced bearings from them wearing out yet, just for testing different types.

These are the best for me so far

8080 model don’t use this big bearing, neither 63 motor. this bearing system is a massive waste of energy.
personally after removing it, I didn’t have your issue , but I had the same issue with a 63100 that I accidentally felt on the ground. After this the aluminum can vibrated du to misalignment and I couldn’t solve it…

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That is very interesting. Ive had the same problem on a turnigy SK3 6374 as well. The Rotor would have to be perfectly aligned/balanced.

It would be so good to be able to run without the big bearing though, the 4 spokes spinning in the water is a huge waste of energy as you said.

So you don’t use the big bearing with your 80100?

yes Some minor vibration if using a big aluminium propeller but only when spinning full throttle in the air , once in water as it reduce rpm it is ok. And also no issue with custom lightweight propellers made of pla carbon.
Did you have a shock on your shaft or rotor ?

Ok cool, and your 80100 is 80KV I assume, so doesn’t spin so fast.

I’ve had no direct shocks to the motor. I’ve hit a few logs in the river and hit the bottom but the wing was the part that took the hit there.

Hi @jakebarnhill1, did you use SK3 6374 in the efoil setup? what were the results? what is sk3 KV in your setup?

@Antonbit I never used an SK3 6374 successfully because I owned one of them, and my old build required 2 outrunners, I used KEDA 190KV 6364’s. An SK3 would work well and there is a 149KV model.