The easiest way I found for creating VeFoil parts was through 3D Hubs, just get it printed in your town locally by someone with a 3D printer using this service. We did it, its awesome and you can pick up your parts 24-48 hours later depending on the person and project size https://www.3dhubs.com/
But what are you ordering? Any special material? Local guys here in Florida wants $600 for SLS!
UK supplier. Good prices. Duct and prop can be 3d printed in PLA.
Ya SLS is not cheap for sure. We are only 3D printing in PLA and another material but only for testing purposes. Our entire design goal is to build with off the shelf parts and our current version only requires 1 small 3D printed part, which we plan to just have CNC’ed which 3DHubs.com can do CNC as well. Then our entire build is aluminum including prop for maximum durability. This has been our goal from day one with my build. Build, learn, and adapt the design with known parts to make it simple, affordable, and reliable.
I won’t obviously print all the PacificMeister’s pieces at once, but I’d love to know if I orientated the parts correcty for best layer mechanical resistance ?
I think the Duct could possibly be flipped 180. (I Could be wrong, this is just my untrained opinion)
I used “touching buildplate support” on the prop, but found the support material difficult to remove. I would love to know the perfect Cura settings to print these parts,
Think you should flip the duct 180 degrees.
Fillets between the stator and duct/centre would increase strength.
Cura settings we use:
I printed the marked parts flipped.
Update - Forgot to mark the seal mount piece in the middle. Also turned around, has a big cavity with horizontal surfaces inside which will need lots of support material if printed this way.
I printed the duct the same orientation and it came out fine
Hey guys as Tyler mentioned above 3D printing parts in sls for higher quality and strength is around $600 usd. I mentioned how i use 3Dhubs and They also do cnc nylon and aluminim for those who want ultimate strength and smoothness.
I had my one part quoted fos SLS $108 usd, same part CNC nylon for a super tough part $47.50 Delivered, im waiting on aluminim quote but cnc for my main part its a no brainer. I just wanted to mention it as its simple.
I use HairSpray…on glass… miracle!
I use 3M Spray Mount repositionable adhésive for lamination before epoxing the fabric.
Mylar is also welcome for glass finished
Can anyone suggest to me a good 3d printer i can buy? i rather buy one that other people have used.
Aldi have one on sale now:
Is this any good
Do you use this spray to get the epoxy bond to the PLA? I´m looking for the best way to laminate 3d printed PLA mast with carbon.
I have heard that epoxy does not have a chemical bond to the PLA.
I use a borosilicate glass build plate and 3DLAC (probably same as hairspray) and the print stuck on it until the plate cooled down.
No , I use the spray to get the fabric bond the PLA, and between the glass or carbon layers. Once all in place, I put epoxy and mylar for miror finished. Then all is going into vacuum bag.
It s the technique I used when making carbon and fiberglass RC gliders wing.
If it s right done really few sanding is needed .
Anybody else having this issue with the @pacificmeister Version 2 seal housing. When it loads on the print platform it is massive. I haven’t had any issue with any of the other parts, they have been great. I cant work out what I’m doing wrong.
That is a problem I sometimes have with cura, too. I did not test this part. Somewhere burried in the cura settings is a function for auto scaling too large or too small parts. In my case cura ignores the correct unit in the stl file and assumes cm or millimeters. If you are lazy like me, a quick workaround is to check the size in cad and just scale by 10 in cura.