I kinda wanna experiment with PETG but my 3D printer claims it only does ABS/PLA on the Amazon website. Is PETG safe through the extruder or do I need to change it up? I know the platform needs to be hotter which isn’t an issue.
Fancyfoam, try this:
this will solve the first problem! (I had the second issue too ,but only by the first 1-2 layer, masking tape solves this too)
Thanks for the link. I will pick some up. I will also try the settings above and see what I get.
You can also use regular blue painter’s tape.
Put slices side by side and you’re good to go.
However, don’t forget to re-calibrate your bed level after applying the tape… or leave it as is to ensure great adhesion (with a crappy first layer…)
If you want petg to stick well i suggest you to buy LOKBUILD and everything will be ok .
Dont forget heatbed must be at 80 celcius
I have not printed the parts on the forum here, but i have been printing PLA parts for the development of a jet water pump the last two years. PLA is neither air tight nor watertight with standard print settings. (But I’m printing with a cheap Pollin 3dp-100.) I had some success with clear laquer.
I recently discovered how to get airtight parts. I printed these with Cura 2.6.2 (in short: 0.1mm layers, first layer 0.25, nozzle: 0.4mm, 5 contour lines and 16 top and bottom layers, 105% flow (=overextrusion), 225°C for the first layers and 210°C after that, 60°C on diy heated bed) High infill settings were not useful in my experiments. Contour lines were the solution for me. I printed pipe connectors for hoses with these settings. I pressurized the parts with 5 bars (73psi) of airpressure and sprayed them with soap water. I have them in use with water now and don’t have any visible leaks.
I would love to have more scientific results on this topic. Please let me know of any ideas.
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The easiest way I found for creating VeFoil parts was through 3D Hubs, just get it printed in your town locally by someone with a 3D printer using this service. We did it, its awesome and you can pick up your parts 24-48 hours later depending on the person and project size https://www.3dhubs.com/
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But what are you ordering? Any special material? Local guys here in Florida wants $600 for SLS!
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UK supplier. Good prices. Duct and prop can be 3d printed in PLA.
Ya SLS is not cheap for sure. We are only 3D printing in PLA and another material but only for testing purposes. Our entire design goal is to build with off the shelf parts and our current version only requires 1 small 3D printed part, which we plan to just have CNC’ed which 3DHubs.com can do CNC as well. Then our entire build is aluminum including prop for maximum durability. This has been our goal from day one with my build. Build, learn, and adapt the design with known parts to make it simple, affordable, and reliable.
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I won’t obviously print all the PacificMeister’s pieces at once, but I’d love to know if I orientated the parts correcty for best layer mechanical resistance ?
Thank you
I think the Duct could possibly be flipped 180. (I Could be wrong, this is just my untrained opinion)
I used “touching buildplate support” on the prop, but found the support material difficult to remove. I would love to know the perfect Cura settings to print these parts,
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Think you should flip the duct 180 degrees.
Fillets between the stator and duct/centre would increase strength.
Cura settings we use:
0.15mm layers
5mm brim
Support everywhere
100%infill
PLA
200C
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I printed the marked parts flipped.
Update - Forgot to mark the seal mount piece in the middle. Also turned around, has a big cavity with horizontal surfaces inside which will need lots of support material if printed this way.
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I printed the duct the same orientation and it came out fine
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Hey guys as Tyler mentioned above 3D printing parts in sls for higher quality and strength is around $600 usd. I mentioned how i use 3Dhubs and They also do cnc nylon and aluminim for those who want ultimate strength and smoothness.
I had my one part quoted fos SLS $108 usd, same part CNC nylon for a super tough part $47.50 Delivered, im waiting on aluminim quote but cnc for my main part its a no brainer. I just wanted to mention it as its simple.
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I use HairSpray…on glass… miracle!
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I use 3M Spray Mount repositionable adhésive for lamination before epoxing the fabric.
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Mylar is also welcome for glass finished