Welding SSS motor wires


#1

How do you weld the SSS motor cable to the mast cables? Specifically the 56114 360KV, i cut them just to find out that are the winding copper, coated wires, the same as in the motor winding! I tried sanding, then with heat… The tin barely stick! Tomorrow I can try wit acid but how you did?


#2

I had this issue but thankfully I cut the wire JUST long enough that there was some pre tinned strands I could solder to…

I tried to sand, use various chemicals and was not able to get a clean stripping of the enamel on the magnet wire…


#3

This is not a good news. :persevere:
I already cut the wires short, just enough to keep the junction inside the hub. There must be a solution… I’ve seen @pacificmeister on the video doing apparently the same. I built many kite and surfboards, 3 carbon hydrofoil by myself but never imagined how many absurd things would slow down this e-project:face_with_symbols_over_mouth:


#4

Did you use flux after heating?


#5

Ah sorry to hear. I should have mentioned it in the video, maybe I add an overlay text. Yes I did the same mistake. Good news, it can be fixed by scraping the tip of each wire clean with a carpet knife.


#6

flux does not strip the enamel. I tried this.


#7

No, heat does strip the enamel, the coating can take 250C maximum so a simple lighter should easily burn it of, and to make it clean use a flux pen. After that your soldering should stick to the striped copper.


#8

In my experience soldering the insulated coated wires is not that hard if you use the right equipment.
The windings are quite thick and thus take away much heat. To compensate for the heat transfer increase your soldering iron to it’s highest temperature (e.g. mine says 450°C) and use the thickest soldering tip possible. The solder on the tip of your iron should burn of just enough of the insulation and the joint will solder just fine. You will see the change in solder coating of the wires when the insulation has been removed. You may have to use a strong soldering iron (50 to 80W) beacause of the heat transfer trough the thick copper wire strands.
Good luck.


#9

Thats good feedback. Maybe I was not using enough heat. I do have a chisel tip and a 60w iron capable of 450 degrees.


#10

Tomorrow will try “a special liquid” which s friend will give me and if it doesn’t work… The aspirin!
https://youtu.be/W3n6P4hejWE
Surely I’ll keep you posted!


#11

I feel lucky my SSS shipped with 6mm bullet connectors!


#12

All these motors are shipped with bullet connectors but I’d to get rid of those and shorten the thin wires below that black sleeve.
Anyway, some sanding and then a pickilng or etching agent (don’t know the English term), strong non-acid made to solder copper house gutters and pipes


#13


It feel solid. I used two glued type shrink sleeves to insulate the wires from motor case. Let’s move on!! Thanks to all of you for suggestions and support!!


#14

Excuse my ignorance, but what’s the rationale for doing that?


#15

did the same with my tpmotor , i tried everything (every tips on the net) did not work, finally i just took off the layer off each wires by hand with sandpaper , took some times but it’s done , after i used a good solder flux : http://www.goot.jp/en/handakanren/bs-10/

i found the product , it is called the ns200 , did not order because it was the price of a new motor: https://e-novalec.fr/epages/fd185c97-4fd6-45b1-b4f6-01dc80e68360.sf/fr_FR/?ObjectPath=/Shops/fd185c97-4fd6-45b1-b4f6-01dc80e68360/Categories


#16

In my case, because I don’t have room for those inside of my motor housing (mast clamp/aluminum tube that contains the motor and must be sealed). I want all the junctions to be out of water, sealed