Ah okay, I’m printing it the other way so that the inside is clean. I’ll keep you posted how it goes.
for the groove to house a bead of silicone, before printing my complete housing, i made some trial test :
this is top vew (silicone is difficult to see)
this is cross section without pressure
and with pressure :
after placing silicone, you can make it more flat with putting some soap or water on you finger. and then pass you finger on it.
hope it will help you
Oh, you just siliconed in the ‘ring’ to the top part of the case?
yes exactly, i do it like that
This is amazing work!
Can I ask what the model of the remote are? Where can I buy it?
Hello I think you can found it on Amazon or other web site :
Great work Gobbla on design and the silicone bead concept!
I have been debating a seal similar to that or rubber gasket, your way definitely makes it simple but looking into rectangular o-ring shape that slides into the grove?
I’m working on a waterproof remote housing also and the shape slowly keeps evolving as we 3D print prototypes for ergonomic feel.
Ergonomic, simple, waterproof remote control
Thanks, your concept is nice, do you plan to install remote inside or just electronics from remote?
For the o ring rectangular , it should work, just need to adapt grove.
In my case I did not choose such rectangular o ring due to difficulty to weld it and to follow the cover shape. In my job before we was using it, but due to leakage, we now use cylindrical o ring. Disadvantages of cylindrical o ring is you need more accuracy on grove and cover surface.
For Silicone bed i m just afraid about life time, a lot of experiments to test
We have just the wireless electronics installed inside the waterproof remote housing to try and keep things as streamlined as possible.
The cheapest, easiest and most comfortable option is the good old:
superlefax 2,4 GHz rubber mod
The main advantage is that it really feels quite sensitive at moving the throttle stick
and more optimised:
There is even a second channel to turn on a module by pressing a button. Any good idea for what we can use the second channel?
we are trying to do a new approach and steer it with a gyroscopic chip inside. So you add power by presing a button and turning the whole remote which is just like a finger ring you put around your finger…
If averything works out shoul be finished by spring, and we would make it available for everybody…
Interesting, I see that it can control the throttle with arm movements if that is what you are using it for?
I see that product here for skateboards: https://longboardlife.org/2017/12/24/interesting-gear-jaykay-e-trucks/
Know that when we foil our arms move and rotate to keep the balance of pitch which skateboards don’t require and wondering how this will affect the throttle as its tied into are movements?
Yes they help us getting it ready
Same as with skateboard…you balance as well but acceleration is done with turning your hand left-right.
If you have the right wings, hydrofoi riding is much easier than skateboarding… We will post a video soon where I´m sitting on it while flying and doing turns…
Unrelated to this conversation, but I’m looking at a COTS controller for our efoil. Specifically this one. I am a total newbie to this R/C electronics life, how can I tell if the controller will work with our ESC. Will it be as simple as hooking up the receiver to it, or will more have to be done? Thanks
Had to look up COTS and learned a new acronym: commercial-off-the-shelf. Good way to start and yes that should work fine. I used the same GT2B controller. Inside big freezer bags.
If you get that ESC be sure to follow the fine print as its designed out of the box for 2 pole motor and most of our motors are 6+ poles MantaRay, hate to see motor get fried because a standard setting
**Note: Standard software is suitable for 2 pole motors. Customers using 4 pole or higher should use the 4 pole firmware set under files tab and set acceleration to low.
Very gord Work !
How do you to charge your remote ?
Where do you use silicone ?
Do you print piece on pla ?
Thank you Giloris, we are very excited about this because the remote control is such a key component of any electric surfboard or efoil and they are not easy to create or produce in bulk.
Our waterproof remote control does not use silicone and it’s made of ABS via injection mold for a stronger, waterproof, and lower cost per unit than 3D printing. The waterproof cap at the bottom screws off to plug in USB cable to charge. We have been able to design something that is very affordable. We are finalizing the waterproof remote control production costs and to be on the safe side it will be priced between $150 - $225.
Hy chris, you already tested your impellers and props? Any news?
So I am starting with the remote now. I will try to use a 20mm long linear poti to build a trigger like on a cordless drill. That trigger can be actuated through a condom unlike a gun trigger. Features are:
*cruise control (not sure yet how this will work. Activating it is easy, but when I deactivate it again, it could cause jerky acceleration or deaceleration. Depends in how hard you press the trigger)
Waterproofing will be with just a condom. I might even make it penis shaped for easier application. : ) Finding compact buttons is hard and expensive, waterproofing too.
Do you know any other buttons or features I should add?