The Max Maker Build


#42

I made a lot of progress today. Most of the thick wires are soldered.

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I polished the VESC with ever finer getting sandpaper. The original looked flat but was actually very cupped. Now it should make a good surface to transfer the heat to the ESC housing.


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Two buttons were added. One for the UBEC and the second one as a start button.


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The ESC box is full of holes now. Different sizes for different cable connectors. MY XT150 cables will fit through, but without the plastic housing. Bullet connectors only.


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I installed the main fuse.


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The motor wires were soldered on. This is AWG 8 to AWG 12. The VESC and motor both have AWG 12. Nothing I can do about it I guess. But all other cables are future proof if I get a more powerful ESC.

I waterproofed the connection by coating the solder joint with silicone and then adding heat shrink tubing while it was still fresh. I will add a second layer when longer heat shrink arrives.


#43

You’re almost ready for water!! Even if the player will go soft with the heat… The XT90 will still connected, I guess you can run a real test and figure out later if those fancy cable organizer kept up with the power


#44

Almost ready for water testing. Only issue was the snow this weekend.

Here is a video update:


#45

Those flat buttons on the case, with the light around, are those watertight? I don’t remember where but I read that they don’t have a suitable IP grade…or maybe certain models don’t.


#46

I have the same ones
from memory they are IP67


#47

Ebay seller says they are. Not sure if thats true.


#48


I got 90% of the electronics inside the board done. Every component is inserted into sockets instead of soldered on. That way I can change out components in case I fry them. I learned this lesson on my previous previous Arduino project.

What you see there is the wireless module, two relays, an LCD, temperature sensors and the green screw terminal for the main power switch.

I have one UBEC which has to power the Arduino and the big relay at 12V. But I also have a 5V USB LED strip. Do I need to get a second UBEC for that? Or have you got a better idea?


#49

Today I designed the remote. Its not pretty, but I am not building a commercial product, so I cannot really put too much time into this.


I could not get any small water proof buttons. A waterproof poti is even more difficult. So I will just put the whole remote in a condom. I tested this on my Ampmeter (see picture) and it works well. The trigger is very similar.

The trigger will be linked to a linear potentiometer. (35mm, 10k ohm ) A spring will return it, but is not in the CAD. There is a wall that separates the wires from the moving part of the trigger. An 18650 battery will power everything. The power switch is at the bottom.

It was difficult to place the 2 buttons at the top. I discovered that they are easy to reach if you put them on the side.

Both enclosure halfs are alligned by little tabs and held together with 3 M4 screws.

File Download


#50

Use a ribbed condom for better grip :slight_smile:


DIY Waterproof remote
#51

I’m using a condome with a thickness of 0.1mm (the stronger ones). In three times they broke twice (at hydrofoiling :wink: So it still is not the ideal solution.


#52

You may try those ( Has anyone mentioned that this e-foil project is bound to cover a huge spektrum of domains ? :roll_eyes:)


#53

Try some fruit lubricants. Water and especially water+salt are a harsh environment :wink:

Diy foilboard on seabreeze forum few years back :joy:
9745190


#54

If they break, you are clearly using the wrong technique. :wink:


#55

Well, you could be right. Maybe a larger one will do the job. Btw, I’m from Leipzig.


#56

Frankfurt, use them doubled!!!


#57

So today I printed the remote. Here is what I found:

  • Trigger needs a stronger spring. (Make room for a second spring and increase distance.)
  • Trigger should be moved forward a bit. (Make the trigger 10mm larger)
  • 1.2mm is not thick enough for the shell. Try 2mm.
  • 18650 fits perfectly.
  • Buttons fit perfectly.
  • A nail works well as an axle.
  • A bit more space in the head would be good. (Increase length by 20mm)
  • Make screw holes stronger and countersinks deeper.
  • Cut away some material in the handle since it is not needed.

#58


Today I improved all the points I found in my previous post. The spring is now pushing instead of pulling. Thats easier to assemble.


The cutouts are going to make this more economical.