The Hiorth Brothers Build


#142

Where did u guys get the seakings from? it’s a Hobbywing seaking 130 hv right? Which version do u guys have? (current newest which is selling is V3)


#143

We use seaking 130A V3. Bought from elfun SEAKING.

It came with a warning: that there are many counterfeit versions out there.


#144

Could be an idea to make the prop smaller. According to theory a bigger prop is better, but amp draw at start-up and duct drag may be bad at that size. Don’t know. I can post the duct and prop used for the tow up, if you want? It’s
Just sanded PLA.


#145

Thanks. I might order one.


#146

Yes, that would be nice. I’ll print the prop with a 140mm diameter to compare.


#147

https://grabcad.com/library/duct-prop-tow-up-1


#148

We are running the pump constantly, as long as the remote is connected to the board


#149

FunFun time auto genereated by Google photos


#150

An insight of summer 2019 on your home lake Hiorth ? :grin:


#151

hello,
Your pump Kamoer KLP05-6 ® Mini vacuum pump is it self-priming?


#152

Yep:) its self priming


#153

Is this design (tow up) different from your original design of prop and duct ? (v1 versions); it seems size is more/less same ? E.g. about 14 cm diam for the prop… ?
I have the same issue as Superlefax; tested my board 2 weeks ago; not enough speed to get foiling. Having a 8:1 reductor I assume having enough power but not the speed (RPM) to get the necessary lift (using Hiorth V1 prop/duct and 56104 500KV).
@ Superlefax : did you manage in the mean time ?


#154

Hi,

I have no issues with too less rpms. The only thing I had was having a too tall propeller (d=160mm) at the beginning. This caused too high amps and too much acceleration.
I’m now using an own propeller which is compared to the hiorth v1 D=142mm much more efficient on my setup (like 70% -don’t ask me why).Before I was foiling with 50A, now its 30A. I got this from someone (forget from whom) of the forum and modified it to my needs. Its now compatible to the hiorth shaft mounting.


#155

Hello ,
I saw that you put your ESC in a box aluminum to act as a passive dissipator in addition to a pump … the top.
I looked on the site RS compotment but can not find the box aluminum … do you have a reference to communicate to me?
thank you


#156

Had no luck with rs-online neither, they did not want to ship to private persons. Depending on where you’re located, Reichelt could be an option, I ordered this aluminium box: https://secure.reichelt.com/ch/en/die-cast-aluminium-housing-160-x-100-x-60-mm-thick-walled-ip-6-1550z116-p121049.html?
They ship to different European countries and prices seem reasonable.


#157

@Manu - here are a few options
https://www.dhgate.com/product/-4-pcs-ip68-waterproof-aluminum-extrusion/256462641.html
https://www.stahlmetall.com/collections/aluminium-enclosures
Or this WLAN-Accespoint Housing - has alreade holes in it :wink: und looks cool
Or a smaller version here
and a AluBox from China

I hope this helps …


#158

Thanks @mikezwgr @sat_be


#159

Hi @Hiorth brothers,
could you please tell me what length the gearbox cooling ring needs to be. I’m guessing that if it is too long it would touch the 3d printed part.
cheers for your help.


#160

I cant recall the exact length. But as long as they are not touching you should be fine. Air is a terrible heat conducter:)


#161

Came across these guys on YouTube https://youtu.be/24FjjIVpk9U

Looks almost too good to be true, but It would for sure save a lot of time soldering wires. (Note: the adhesive used in these will most likely not 1stick to silicone wires!) Wires running in water should, if possible) be kept without any joints.