Good day all and hello form New Zealand! so i figured id share what i have been doing and maybe it will help someone along the way
i started by printing all the parts then coating them all with epoxy then sanding and polishing to waterproof them im using PLA on my CR10 but ABS works aswell. The Cr10 is slightly modded so it prints really nicely
started making a test box just to see how everything worked out on the water
4 x 8000mah lipos for 16s
1 x coulometer
1 x 48v dc 150A breaker
1 x 12dc self priming pump
1 x 400A 22s boat esc (thing is an animal on 20s) they shipped it wit the wrong sticker saying 200A lol
1 x HK G2b controller
Ended up running standalone batt for tx/rx and pump while testing
Vid below of the china gearbox Assembly
Going to be using a Liquidforce foil
Drilled out the mast and put the cables and water cooling tube down the center
Your build looks fantastic! What was the most difficult part, or unpredicted problem?
Thanks! i think keeping the pod watertight is the hardest part, that and the remote not being waterproof lol. But i am working on a removable motor pod with a plug in system so the motor pod can be can be swapped easily,
my first unpredicted problem was the motor rotating in the aluminum tube and unplugging its self when i was miles off shore - that was a bit of a paddle back lol. second was water getting in the motor pod.
Build looks awesome. That Chinese gearbox looks like the one I have, untested with load.
How are you managing the motor connections in the removable pod?
How did you manage that? Did you fix the motor separately?
Hopefully going to use something along theses lines
then the pins will plug into the female ones at the back of the aluminum tube. ill post up progress as i go, just busy with work atm so not much time to work on the foil unfortunately
i made the back end of the double o ring mount 5 mm longer to accommodate some 4 mm grub screws on the water side of the seal,in the pic on the right is the original pacificMeister, one on the and on the left the is te one with a bigger lip for the grub screws
so the grub screws keep the aluminium tube fixed radially and axially (compared to the gearbox and motor) from the propeller side?!
looks like this, its more for the small radial load than anything because the gearbox and motor will spin the opposite way to the prop if its not pinned down. i found out the hard way lol
be carefull if you cut the wires from the motor it can be tricky to solder then back
Thanks i will be careful, tho i am lucky to have loads of experience with motors. you just need a flux strong enough to eat the enamel off the copper wire or if you want a home remedy you can use drain cleaner (Caustic Soda) and salt solution both work really well!
i guess i didn’t have the correct chemical because at the time i had tested every thing: flux, acid… nothing worked on the TP power Motor enamel.
how long does your battery (8000mah? ) would last?
Have a look at this vid below it may help for next time to strip the enamel .
I only used the 8000mah for testing as I mostly use them for my electric mountain board. you get maybe 20 mins of messing around but that’s not going full power all the time. I have 4 20000mah 6s lipos I will use for the final board, I plan on only using 2 of them at a time tho.
To remove enamel, I use blowtorch, key point is to do not burn copper. At home I m using lighter if wire is really small. You can protect copper wire with one layer of copper foil. After burning you should clean each wire one by one with scotch britte
To prevent transfer of heat you can wrap one layer of cloth an put water on it.
If needed I can share picture. We do like that in my job, chemical is not allowed.