Overheating at full speed, in dynamic condition is strange, it is about the point of lowest current draw. Is your cooling working fine? I have a cooling pump fail by braking impeller shaft (with ceramic guide shaft holding it in place), it was still making noise and spitting some water with no pressure but no useful fluid flow in closed system.
That’s an interesting point. I bought the Seaking in Germany. Could be that it was a faked one.
I haven’t measured the temp unfortunately. I just know that is was getting quite hot. On the new ESC I will install an temperature buzzer like the lipo alarm thing:
DC 12V Red LED Digital Thermometer High Low Alarm -60~125C Temperature with Temp Probe Sensor B3950 10K Temperature Meter
http://s.aliexpress.com/iMBvuEfe?fromSns=Copy to Clipboard
New to the forum however I experienced a similar issue.
My initial setup:
BATTERY - Multistar 20,000 mAh 10c (22.2v)
ESC - SeaKing 130A HV
MOTOR - SSS 56114 (132A Max)
I believe that the motor ended up pulling to much amperage, thus straining the ESC (which started through smoke into the living room like the forth of July) and then caused my receiver to self combust and start on fire.
Since then I have replaced all of the components,which in doing so required all new soldered joints. The only difference is that the motor is now the SSS 56104 model that has been talked about alot on here. This model only draws the (88A Max) which I’m sure is why PacificMeister specified it.
Was in to much of a rush and quick ordered the parts, which in turn ended up costing me 6 fresh Benjamin’s
Copper crimp instead of soldering?
I used these Copper crimps and found it quite difficult to crimp them on my vise.
I originally started with a VESC, the. To the seawing 130Abut it would cut out with overhead after a couple minutes of riding so i got a larger esc that could handle the current much easier.
My thinking, if wires or any electronic part gets way to hot to touch its undersized and is a fire risk. Im using 400A esc with 8awg and watercooled.
Desoldering can happen really easily with 10awg wires with the currents we all run. Two ways around this, use higher end silver based solder that can handle much higher temps, or heavy duty crimp connectors and be sure to use the proper heavyduty crimp tool for propery connection.