Pacificmeister Build Info and CAD Sources


it’s good i found on youtube


If I read this right, at 24 kph you are at ~70 amps. I’m about the same using the SSS 56104 360kv, Parker 4:1, 130mm x 215mm 3D printed prop that is sanded and painted, 14s battery, Alien 300A boat ESC.

Based on Pacificmeister’s data, the Flite Board website, and the Lift pictures, they are only using about 42 amps to go 24kph. I’m wondering if anyone has any idea why some of us are using 70% more current than others. I’m fine buying more batteries, but I want the most efficient system I can get! I doubt the Seaking ESC is that much more efficient.


Yep that’s correct. The 70% difference on my case is the prop and the prop guard. Once my prop guard broke while riding and my top speed increased from 31 to 37km/h and I am sure that with a good aluminum/carbon prop I could have reached close to 50km/h. I guess that’s the difference?


Could you help me to choose the good position of the “black square” ? to have 5v on the receiver.


I find with a voltmeter !!! so stupid.


That’s what I was thinking. It’s the only thing that makes any sense. When I lose the prop guard, I get about 20% higher speeds as well. And other than light sanding and a single coat of light paint, I haven’t attempted to polish my FDM props. I sent much of today sanding, laquering, sanding, laquering, etc the prop blades of a prop I just tested which at full throttle was around 130 amps. They are as smooth as I’m willing to make them. Will be testing soon again to see how much difference it made.


Hey, did anyone else buy the aluminum pipe off of Amazon? I measured it with calipers and discovered it was a little over 1mm out of round. I expect this will cause trouble with achieving good thermal contact with the motor/gearbox and pipe. Did I get a bad piece or did anyone else find bad dimensions? Maybe I need to find another source…


I noticed that some are not 100% round but 1mm sounds like a lot. I sent one back once that was too banged up, I noticed that quality varies. There is certainly a small air gap if you use the SSS 56xxx motors, so use plenty of that messy thermal paste.


Mine was 3mm off. I asked for a return and it was also similarly out of spec. The third one they sent was good.


Ok, I’ll return it an try again. Thanks for the quick responses.



I use these remote but motor dont work
I configured my seaking v3 esc and appaired this remote
Someone Has used it to this project ?. I m using this to my électric longboard and it s ok .


@pacificmeister when did you start using the two blade prop over the three blade? (referencing your latest youtube upload where you said duct and prop are the same as before)


I exactly know that problem too :wink: somehow they didn’t explained it in the instructions of the remote.

Their is a small screw which is adjusting the neutral gas position. You need to turn it to the neutral position for the fail safe mode of the Seaking. Then it will work.


@cwazy1, I have been using 2, 3 and 4 blade props with the planetary gears. Mostly 3 and 4 blade props recently. Went back to 2 blades with the belt experiment.


I ajust small screw but any noise to thé motor ans motor dont work
My recever is Powered by an external battery (with 4 x1,5v) , i use any bec
Esc connector is on ch1 ( i disconnect red wire) and wire connector power on bind
Can you help me ?


I struggled with a skateboard remote on my first build using a VESC for efoil.

My Notes for Binding and remote setup @giloris

1).Check and make sure all the wires are mounted, and the remote is OFF, insert the bind plug into CH3(Bind) on the receiver;
2).Switch on the ESC, you can see the receiver red light flash;
3).Press and hold on the bind button on the remote and THEN turn the remote on;
4).You should notice the transmitter go from flashing red to solid red, and also the solid red of the receiver;
5).Once you see a solid red light, you now know the two are binded together, and please pull the bind plug out (this is important, so the remote can record the throttle mid to realize the fail-safe)
6).Then you can test it again by turning off the controller and it should flash.if you turn the power on Transmitter back on it should go back to solid red.


I used it to my electric longboard and it’s work normally with my VESC
Two red light are OK. On SEAKING 130A HV there isn’t BEC.
I dont install BEC but i installed an external power battery to my receiver (4x1.5V ), i connected esc remote plug on receiver and i disconnect red wire.
Do i need an amperage mini to the receveir output ? BEC is it crucial ?


@pacificmeister Ahh, I see.

I’ve been trying to foil with the 3 blade prop and it seems that the power is not quite enough to get up on foil without some luck. I’m not quite sure what is causing the problem because it seems like you have no problem getting up.

I’m using 12s with lipos and the neugart 1:5 with the sss 500kv.

My board is approx 80-90L.

Would using the 4 blade prop solve my speed issue? that would theoretically provide less torque but more top speed.


Worth a try. You can also experiment with different duckt profiles, my early one causes quite some drag at higher speeds. Have you tried the NACA0012 I posted? I haven’t yet;). Here: Parametric Propeller & Duct Design - Fusion 360. Or try a bigger wing to foil at slower speeds.


Good to know. I bought exactly the same model of transmitter but still could not try it, since i am still buying the other parts…