Pacificmeister Build Info and CAD Sources

I’m very interested in the twisted stators behind prop. Can u share the reading reference?

@morgansteven1970, my home printer tolerances are not great and I didn’t try to make it a tight press fit. It’s fits well but is not super tight. I use some silicon to lock seals and bearing in place.

@pacificmeister ye its a trick one trying to work out the tolerances of bought materials and getting the model dimensions right to accommodate this and get the fit just right. Cheers for your feedback.

The reason we choose the B-troost thrust section was to be able to 3d print the prop (thicker section in the center), and because it seems like a good propeller section. Our final goal is to optimize everything, so we can ride as long as possible (and SAFE!) on one charge.

We read about the stators several places (cant fint all of them now), here is one. We “need” the stators for safety reasons, so it was nice to combine them with net positive thrust.

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Hi
Where do you find motor reduction NEUGART PLE 40 5:1 , it’s very difficult to find it on used category or price is very high to buy new version !
It’s exist another solution or this reduction is very calibrate to this project ?
Regards

I found my Parker 7:1 on Amazon for $64 new. Directly from Parker. No idea why it was that cheap. Got the Neugart on EBay for $120 used. Not easy to find cheap and get fast, lots of discussion on the form. Try the forum search. Also lots of discussion about other gears and direct drive. Keep reading :smile:

Actually when you started your project, I remember looking for a Parker and I found 2 options on amazon us. One was around the $74 and the other around the $400 price point. Both claimed to be Parker, but I’m pretty sure one was a reseller.

I remember somewhere in this thread that @pacificmeister you where having trouble with the mast filling with water? But that did not really bother you since you had your svc to battery connection cables nice and sealed with the silicone on both ends. Im no expert at this kind of efoil build nor do I have the funds to attempt it (lord knows I really want to) but I also remember you attempting to have a water cooling system for your svc I believe was the part, and if this suggestion helps at all you could kill two birds with one stone by simply placing your water pump tube down inside the bottom of the mast, running through the mast to the top of the board, and then to your watercooled svc and then a simple exhaust output for the excess water once its passed through the svc cooling system. This would suck excess water out of the mast and utilize it as the water cooling system needed while also having an incoming supply of water into the mast consistently. If you have the system(including the water pump) running until you finish your ride then there should be no water accumulated in the mast.

Hey @Cjwelcome, thanks for your ideas. If I decide to add the water cooling I will add a dedicated intake to ensure consistent water flow. Sucking the water entering the mast is a nice thought but it will start sucking air from the top once the water is out and the pump won’t stay primed. Water in mast is fine right now, there are other important challenges to solve, e.g. I am still riding with ziplocks :slight_smile: . And regarding water cooling, I will keep that on the future to-do pile, not really sure I need it with this setup. Maybe when I try higher amp direct drive setups again… I foiled 20min last night without overheating issues, the bottom aluminum plate was working well.

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We are also having success with no watercooling only a heatsink :slight_smile: but I suppose a much larger battery would require watercooling when riding for a long time.

How about one of those freezer ice packs for the batteries? Coupled with a fresh silica bag to battle condensation. I worked with them a lot. Those silica perls bind the moisture and make the air as dry as possible. You can re-dry them in the oven.

Anyone else outside of the US having trouble sourcing the shaft seal?

@swarm I got the shaft seals from Allied bearings in Cairns. The guy was more surprized than me that he actually had it in stock.

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Thanks mate! Most stuff I’ve been able to use amazon/ebay but wanting quicker gratification!

Thought I would share my new design I’m building. here it is in solid works assembly.
sorry have not been here much as I have been busy with other things.
Ant

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so you got 3 props?
the first 2 (white ones) are connected?
What about the black one?
How do you distribute the power between the props?

The Black one is a stator but looks like you want the opposite Pitch??

@pacificmeister
there was nothing wrong with the stl file (i asked about the measurements a few posts ago).
It was a wrong setting at my printer.

I have another question.
At the moment i am building your build :slight_smile:
But i am looking for a custom batterie solution. Can you tell me whats your max current draw at your setup (neugart gear)?

Hello Ant,
Nice pictures and work.
I think that the entry of the water is very very too small and too complex, you will have a lot of loose of efficiency. Look at the difference between the fist version and the final version of the Virus setup.
V1 : exactly the same problem as your design : https://youtu.be/FV1Qgv2K9wI
V4 : with a BIG entry for the water : https://youtu.be/SuKLvpmN-b0