New foil builder in Southern Sweden

Forgot to say that this is a wonderful forum with many nice builds!

And make my own aluminium fuselage and mast but not sure about rear wing? Guess i could use basically any one avalible on ebay with okay result?

yes you can do that, the have rear wing “stabilizers” in carbon and cheaper fibre glass that fits as well
just contact them info@rlkite.com

Very cool! That CNC sounds amazing! Good luck!

Will you use a duct? My feeling is that props for ducts don’t need rounded edges like the Solas has. But I don’t know.

Yes i will use a duct, is it best to have the duct tight to the proppeller like in a jet drive or with like 10mm gap around? Seen both designs

Parts starting to arrive :grin:
That engine is a BEAST (think it is designed as a r/c boat engine and my only previous r/c stuff was a Kyosho scorpion when i was a kid and a 4x4 crawler on later days with brushed 540 engine…) this is so much bigger!

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It is a beast!
Welding SSS wires In case you want to cut the wires short to keep the junction mast wire/motor wite to stay inside the pod, beware that motor cables come from the windings, they are coated in enamel!

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Could be good to know👍

Started my build today by making the propeller shaft, is a 20mm solid stainless steel axle, will probably drill a hole through it later to save some weight (it is not cut in right lenght yet)

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I would suggest going smaller with the drive shaft. Everything will need to be bigger, seals, bearings etc. It will add a lot of extra weight. Weight is now a major consideration for me when Im building. It has a nasty habit of sneaking up on you.

I second this. There is no reason to have a shaft larger than 10mm. Even with a prop that requires a larger shaft, it makes more sense to use a bushing instead.

Thanks for respond, might be a bit stuck in the Heavy duty world (last project was a big offroad car)
Will check my local hardware store for bearings and seals today.

They will be cheaper too. Most of our bearing suppliers here go down to 6900 size (10x22x6) for both bearings and seals. Common size makes things easy.

Propeller shaft finished, is now 15mm and has 2 normal bearings and 1 thrust bearing to take up the push load from the propeller and a seal in both ends.
The pull force is applied on a normal bearing through a c-clip but don’t t plan to do any reversing so it should be fine :stuck_out_tongue:

Bought a used ple40 gearbox today but it has 1:8 in gearratio, i think it will be okay but i guess i can use a more “aggressive” (bigger or more pitch) propeller to compensate for the lower RPM(compared to a 1:5 gearbox) ?

The assembly is a bit long right now but it is a easy task to short it.
Didn’t know what gearbox i would find so thought it was good to have a long narrow part before the propeller so it can “breath”

Did a test in a lake today with a AEG screwdriver with 1500rpm maximum so probably 1200rpm under the water.
And it pulled hard! Hard to say how much but i guess 5-10kg

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Yes, did the same at the Time ! This let you imagine when it is spinning at 3000rpm in water …

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Milling started, will be the foilmount

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Damn you have access to a nice CNC!!! I wish I could find something that near me.