Bolts are sealed into epoxy resin + microballons. I’ve used a PVC pipe (32mm) to prevent that the resin polymerization melt polystyrene of the foam. Also I’ve filled it in several times (need some days).
That seems very robust, I’ve ride it severals times with my kite: no problem.
The pvc pipe don’t need to be specialy glued, it only acts as a protection of the foam from the heat generated during epoxy polymerization (mainly important at the center where the heat can’t be evacuated).
Rigidity of the system come from the epoxy core, which can endure strong compression efforts. The pipe must be a little shorter than the thickness of the foam so that epoxy overflow a bit at both side.
I managed to take off and fly several times during 20 or 30 meters, first laying on the board, then kneeling. Not yet stand up but it’s just a question of time. My board don’t float, that make starts a little difficult, even with my kitefoil experience.
I had enough power with my Aquastar 4082 motor and 12S for my 70Kg. I think even that I was not full throttle, I think I still have a bit more power in reserve.
My ESC (YEP 120A) stayed not too hot, without any cooling system, so I supposed that amperes was rather low.
I will make videos and watt measures during next days…
Great news @Silvio ! Thanks for updating us! Do you have any current and voltage measurements? It might be very good to see in terms of efficiency and power required to take off.
My board is only 170x52x11cm and about 65l. That is really an handicap to begin, if I could, I would have chosen a bigger one, but I had this old windsurf board in my garage that was useless.
I’ve positioned the mast approximately, after looking masts position of other efoils on the web. I think the only point is to leave some space (20 to 40cm) after the mast to have enough margin for the back foot.
Too me it looks like he got the watercooled one and removed the watercooling jacket, have a look at hobbyking, you find the diameter with and without watercooling jacket.
I was able to get up and fly for a long distance. My set-up really has a good power (difficult to dose with the small remote control handle). But some problems:
My Pinon unglue one time from the motor shaft, it’s better to weld it
Some water enter in the motor pod and through the hatch, but no dammage
I have the same problem with the visibility of the Watt meter… even a gopro next to it can’t get a good view… only viable solution seems to be something that records for later use…
Some difficulty to dose my remote too i’m working on new one… with more trigger travel.
There’s one more thing that bother me… in your picture of the board flying, is that representative of the angle in flight? or just at take off? when mine is flying it’s also angled up… doesn’t feel right compare to surf foiling or kite foiling…
does anyone found a solution to have the board more leveled?
I think I’ve flown most of the time almost horizontally, the photo is not representative.
I think it’s just a question of foot position: front foot should be more forward.
Remote - remove the spring from the remote so that you can set your throttle to a value that you can foil at. Then add a non latching switch to just trigger the remote on and off. Set the ESC to helicopter mode so that it starts the motor slowly.
Foil - The foil fuselage must be run parallel to the deck of the board. A lot of guys that are attempting to use windsurfers and the like are not taking into account that the rocker is very different to purpose designed foil boards. Therefore when you install the fin boxes of tuttle boxes, you need the route deeper into the mid section of the board to compensate and get the foil at the right angle.