DIY Waterproof remote


#223

I have been designing PCBs for awhile now. I much prefer putting the components on a PCB so I get the functionality I need rather than using a arduino mini or nano. Once we converge on a design I would be happy to design the PCB. Eagle has a nice feature where the PCB with components can be inported into F360 to see the assembly together.


#224

This is a messy Fritzing scheme of my transmitter, it works fine to me, but I don’t use capacitor to filter the NRF24i power (3.3V), I preferred a power module, very easy to use, take care of adapting 5V and have some SMD ceramic capacitors that stabilize the power.
I use Honeywell SS49E linear hall sensor and 2 neodimium magnets, the hall sensor is in between North-South faces, it gives better sensitivity and wider “range” of movement for the trigger.
I used a reed bulb as ON/OFF switch, magnet outside the case to turn on the command. There’s a calibration routine to do each time you power it on, so you’ll be sure the sensor gets the right zero and 100% without having to wonder values and narrow the reading range to have max and min safely in.
The fisrt version had the ramp into the transmitter but I realized that in case of disturb or else, it’s safer to have the receiver to manage the motor with an accelleration ramp!
These are the Arduino sketches:
TRANSMITTER NRF24i
RECEIVER NRF24i

In the future, I will add an ammeter before the ESC, to limit eventual over-current, and who knows? Maybe would be cool to read the amps and voltage or other data onto a OLED display, directly onthe transmitter? The way for development is wide and free! Just take lots of time…
As disclaimer: 2.4Ghz and water… sucks! But with an hi-power NRF24 module, pulling the antenna out of the ESC box and gluing it in front of my board i did the trick. It works reliable.
I don’t share the cover design because it suck either, I had to use silicone to joint the two parts, neoprene gasket was leaking. Anybody could do better.


#225

Mine is similar, but it all runs from one 18650 directly. And I don’t have any LEDs, the Board shows connectivity on its display.


#226

So over the weekend when I tested my board, no matter how well I sealed my my remote in a bag, it seemed to take water.
However I have now ordered an IP67 rated switch and potentiometer so that I can change a couple components and turn the cheap remote into a cheap waterproof remote :slight_smile:


#227

Today I trashed another, Arduino oxidized, saved the nrf24, usb charger and step up, the nrf24power shield gone also… no matter for silicone, PETG it’s never watertight.


#228

I have not used PETG until now, but I got airtight (to my standards) parts with PLA and adjusted print settings.
I have spammed this heureka moment for me here Timing Belt Reduction and there
3D printing, how do you do it? .
If you want to try it, make a hollow test part and pressurize it with air/water to test.


#229

How did i miss this thread… im making a water proof remote as well based on a esk8 to work with the Vesc. My housing is machined out of HDPE and the the electronics poted. Can i ask why more are not using the VESC?


#230

Also why use the SPI based 2.4 v.s a serial radio, like the SIK which are as cheap as the SPI, but available in full duplex 433 and 915 range?


#231

Yes SIK based 433/915 radios are used extensively in UAVs and should have good water penetration. Maybe the size of the units + antenna discouraged people. I have some lying around here, maybe I should use them.

What are you using in your?


#232

I guess the problem in my remote housing are the thin walls of the Hall housing. I never had problems of tightness with ASA and PC but I gave up after 2 prints slightly warped (no way to squeeze the gasket due to deformation).
Next will be PLA or else, then epoxy


#233

There are micro SIK same size of the SPI 2.4 and cost about the same with pcb antenna. 433 @ 100mw is good for a mile on water.


#234

Im willing to machine housings in HDPE if we come up with a design radio


#235

As a size ref here is the spi 2.4. v.s my serial SIK 433. I can maintain a serial link well over a mile with it set on max power 100mw, fo our aplication 10mw would be more then enof and water would be no issue.


#236

I’m thinking of going with a clear plexi tube for my remote… Easy to seal the ends and my IP67 switch and pot can sit outside it if I need to!


#237

I read something into internet about that radio module, didn’ t know it existed before. With lower frequencies I’m more concerned about disturbs, even though in open sea there should little of that.
I think it’s worth to try, it’s a transceiver and that’s necessary for our purpose, unless to leave a LED on the board to know when remote is coupled.
Which library do you use on Arduino, for that module?


#238

Last weekend we had a successful session with our improved waterproof efoil remote. This weekend we plan to get out riding and test a minor improvement on it but its pretty much ready for injection molding and production! It will work with any ESC and has a built-in safety to shut off the motor if you fall or lost connection.

Super Stoked!



Share your builds here!
#239

Hi VeFoil,

that sounds really nice! Does your remote also have an cruise control button?


#240

Nice! Can the fail-safe and the endpoints be configured?


#241

You can limit the max throttle on our ESC to 75% or 50% power if you wanted to try that type of cruise control. It would like regular/sport mode. But no, we don’t have cruise control as we feather the throttle when turning as board will naturally slow down with increase drag during roll.


#242

Thanks, fail safe is not really configurable with this setup.